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Manual Wood Splitter: Best Options & How to Use Them

A Complete Guide On Finding The Best Manual Wood Splitter For YOU

Splitting firewood by hand is a time-honored tradition—great for staying warm, building muscle, and working up a proper appreciation for modern tools.

But swinging an axe all day? That’s a fast track to a sore back and a bad attitude.

That’s where manual firewood splitters come in—giving you a smarter, safer, and more efficient way to split logs without the fuel costs or noise of gas-powered machines.

If you’re ready to upgrade from brute force to brainpower, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about manual firewood splitters, including:

✅ The best manual firewood splitters on the market
Key features to look for when buying one
How to use a manual firewood splitter (so you don’t wreck your hands or dignity)
Who should get one (and who should stick to an axe or hydraulic splitter)

Let’s dive in (but first)…

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Manual Firewood Splitters

Not all manual splitters are created equal. Some are great for big, tough logs, while others are better suited for kindling and small jobs. Here are the top-rated manual firewood splitters:

1. Kindling Cracker

???? Best for: Splitting small logs and making kindling
???? Why it’s great: Stationary wedge design—just hit the log with a mallet
???? Max log size: 6.5-inch diameter logs
???? Why you’ll love it: Zero maintenance and safe for all ages. Perfect for campers, cabin owners, and anyone who loves a good bonfire.

Check it out here

Kindling Cracker – Firewood Splitter Review

2. Kindling Cracker XL

???? Best for: Splitting medium logs and making kindling
???? Why it’s great: Stationary wedge design—just hit the log with a mallet
???? Max log size: 9-inch diameter logs
???? Why you’ll love it: Same as the previous one, just a big larger/heavy to accommodate larger log sizes.

Check it out here

Kindling Cracker XL – First Try

Note: These are the only 2 I recommend. Everything else has too many compromises to be considered a top option.

Key Features to Look for in a Manual Firewood Splitter

A good manual firewood splitter should be strong, stable, and safe. Here’s what you should consider before buying:

???? Splitting Mechanism – Hydraulic pump? Slide hammer? Wedge-and-mallet design? Pick one based on your strength and log size needs.

???? Max Log Size – Some splitters handle only small logs for kindling, while others can split thicker, tougher pieces of firewood.

???? Portability – If you need something lightweight for camping or off-grid use, avoid bulky hydraulic models.

???? Durability – Cast iron and hardened steel blades last longer than cheap aluminum or plastic parts.

???? Ease of Use – If your goal is less effort, go for hydraulic splitters or wedge-based designs that don’t require brute force.

How to Use a Manual Firewood Splitter (Without Wrecking Yourself)

Using a manual firewood splitter the right way will keep you safe and make the job much easier. Here’s the step-by-step process:

1. Prep Your Work Area

✔️ Set up on solid, level ground (concrete or packed dirt works best)
✔️ Wear safety gear – gloves, boots, and eye protection (flying wood chips are no joke)
✔️ Stack logs nearby so you don’t have to stop and reload every few minutes

2. Position the Log

✔️ Place the log upright and centered on the splitter
✔️ If using a wedge-style splitter, align it straight over the grain for a clean break

3. Apply Force

✔️ For hydraulic splitters – Pump the handle until the log splits
✔️ For slide hammer splitters – Lift the hammer and slam it down onto the wedge
✔️ For wedge-style splitters – Strike the log with a heavy mallet until it cracks

4. Remove & Repeat

✔️ Clear the split logs away before placing another one
✔️ If a log doesn’t split completely, rotate it and try again

Pro Tip: Don’t rush. Splitting firewood is about technique, not just strength.

Let the tool do the work!

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Who Should Get a Manual Firewood Splitter?

A manual firewood splitter isn’t for everyone—but it might be perfect for you if:

You want a safer alternative to an axe – If you’re tired of swinging a maul (or just worried about missing your target), a splitter gives you more control and less risk.

You don’t want to deal with gas-powered machines – Hydraulic and electric splitters are great, but they require maintenance, fuel, or electricity. Manual splitters work anywhere.

You need something portable – If you’re heading to a cabin or off-grid property, a small manual wood splitter is easier to transport than a heavy-duty hydraulic model.

You want to save money – Manual splitters cost a fraction of electric or gas-powered splitters. If you’re only splitting firewood for personal use, a $100–$300 splitter will get the job done without breaking the bank.

❌ However…If you need to split massive logs all winter long, you might want to invest in a powered splitter instead. Manual splitters are fantastic for smaller jobs, but they’ll wear you out if you need to process cords of wood regularly.

Final Thoughts: Should You Get a Manual Firewood Splitter?

So if you love the idea of splitting firewood without gas, electricity, or unnecessary effort, a manual firewood splitter is a smart buy. It’s safer than an axe, cheaper than a power splitter. And far more efficient than splitting logs the old-fashioned way.

???? For small logs and kindling? Go for a wedge-based splitter like the Kindling Cracker.
???? For medium-sized logs? A slide hammer splitter gives you controlled power.
???? For big logs? A hydraulic manual splitter is your best bet.

At the end of the day, the right tool makes all the difference. If you want faster, easier, and safer firewood splitting, a manual wood splitter belongs in your shed.

Now, go forth and split wood like a pro. ????????

Prepare, Adapt & Overcome,

P.s. – I just found out 2 out of 3 Americans don’t feel prepared for a 3 day disaster!!!

I guess this goes to show how modern society continues to embrace ‘living a fragile life.’ What’s crazy is… it’s so easy to fix.

To make sure YOU have the basics, watch our FREE training on “10 Simple Steps To Basic Preparedness” that shows you HOW.

Nothing crazy here… this isn’t doomsday prepping… just the basics every responsible adult should have before a disaster strikes.

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The post Manual Wood Splitter: Best Options & How to Use Them appeared first on Skilled Survival.

11 Signs That Our World Is Rapidly Becoming A Lot More Orwellian

This article was originally published by Michael Snyder at The End of the American Dream. 

All over the globe, the digital control grid that we are all living in just continues to get even tighter. They are using facial recognition technology to scan our faces, they are using license plate readers to track where we travel, they are systematically monitoring the conversations that we are having on our phones, and they are watching literally everything that we post on social media.

At this stage, many of us just assume that nothing that we do or say is ever truly private. We really do live in a “Big Brother society”, and the potential for tyranny is off the charts. In fact, people are already getting arrested for “thought crimes” all over the world. If we do not take a stand now, someday soon we could wake up in a world where there is essentially no freedom left at all.

The exponential growth of AI technology is allowing authorities to watch, track, monitor, and control us like never before.  If you are not alarmed by this, you might want to check if you are still alive.  The following are 11 signs that our world is rapidly becoming a lot more Orwellian…

#1 UK authorities are rolling out “a country-wide facial recognition system” that will use AI facial recognition cameras to watch the entire population…

On Thursday, officials in the UK pledged to roll out a country-wide facial recognition system to help police track down criminals. The country’s ministers have launched a 10-week consultation to analyze the regulatory and privacy framework of their AI-powered surveillance panopticon — but one way or another, the all-seeing eye is on its way.

There’s just one tiny wrinkle: the AI facial recognition cameras have a tendency to misidentify non-white people.

New reporting by The Guardian notes that testing of the AI tech conducted by the National Physical Laboratory (NPL) found that it‘s “more likely to incorrectly include some demographic groups in its search results” — specifically Black and Asian people.

#2 Of course, the control freaks in the UK also monitor everything that gets posted on social media.  One British man recently found this out the hard way when he was arrested for posing with a legally-owned gun in the United States

A Yorkshire man was arrested over a photo he posted on social media featuring him holding a legally owned gun in the US.

Jon Richelieu-Booth posted a photo of himself in August holding a gun on LinkedIn while he was on a holiday in Florida.

He said he held the firearm lawfully, on private land and with full permission from its owner.

#3 If you do not believe that “thought crime” is real, just consider this next example.  11 police officers recently barged in and arrested a 34-year-old woman that was sitting naked in her own bathtub because she used offensive words while texting another woman on her phone…

The United Kingdom has become an authoritarian nightmare, and the United States must remain vigilant if it does not want to go down the same course.

Elizabeth Kinney, a 34-year-old care assistant, was naked in the bathtub when 11 police officers barged into her home to arrest her.

Her crime was sending insults to another woman via text.

How would you feel if 11 police officers were staring at you while you were naked?

As she was being informed that she had engaged in “malicious communications”, tears started flowing from Kinney’s eyes

Kinney burst into tears as male officers denied her any privacy, and a female officer informed her that she was being arrested for “malicious communications and hate crime.” “The Crown place this offense in the highest category of its type due to the effect related to sexual orientation and the greater harm because it had moderate impact,” prosecutors insisted. Kinney faced ten years in prison, but her attorney begged for leniency. She has been ordered to perform seventy-two hours of community service, attend ten days of rehabilitation, and pay a fine of several hundred pounds.

#4 French President Emmanuel Macron wants the power to determine which media outlets will be allowed to speak to the public and which media outlets will be silenced

Macron has in the last weeks intensified warnings on the risks of disinformation, on Friday calling for changes to French legislation that would allow “false information” online to be urgently blocked.

He has also called for “professional certification” of outlets to distinguish sites and networks that provide reliable information according to ethical rules from others that do not.

But at the weekend, the Journal du Dimanche Sunday newspaper, part of the influential media stable of right-wing tycoon Vincent Bollore, accused Macron in a front-page story of a “totalitarian drift” on the issue.

#5 Because he is a champion of free speech, the EU has been coming after Elon Musk for years.  So it shouldn’t surprise any of us that the European Commission just fined his company 140 million dollars for supposed violations of the Digital Services Act

The European Commission has issued a $140 million fine to Elon Musk’s X for violating the EU’s controversial Digital Services Act (DSA). The fine is likely to escalate tensions between the EU and America over free speech online.

Bloomberg reports that the European Commission has imposed a €120 million ($140 million) fine on X, Elon Musk’s social media platform, for breaching the EU’s Digital Services Act (DSA). This marks the first penalty issued under the new censorship law, which aims to regulate online platforms and “protect” users from illegal content and disinformation.

#6 In recent years, we have seen so many controversial voices suddenly have their bank accounts shut down.  Shockingly, JPMorgan Chase CEO Jamie Dimon is now publicly admitting that his company does “debank” people…

As JPMorgan Chase Bank is under investigation by the state of Florida for alleged coordination with the Biden Department of Justice and Operation Arctic Frost, the chairman of the company is admitting to debanking certain customers, but says it has nothing to do with their political or religious affiliations.

“We do debank them,” said JPMorgan Chase CEO Jamie Dimon who appeared on “Sunday Morning Futures” with Maria Bartiromo on the Fox News Channel.

“People have to grow up here and stop making up things and stuff like that. I can’t talk about an individual account.

#7 India wants to require that phone location services are always on so that the government can track people through their phones wherever they go…

You know what they say: If at first you don’t succeed at mass government surveillance, try, try again. Only two days after India backpedaled on its plan to force smartphone makers to preinstall a state-run “cybersecurity” app, Reuters reports that the country is back at it. It’s said to be considering a telecom industry proposal with another draconian requirement. This one would require smartphone makers to enable always-on satellite-based location tracking (Assisted GPS).

The measure would require location services to remain on at all times, with no option to switch them off. The telecom industry also wants phone makers to disable notifications that alert users when their carriers have accessed their location. According to Reuters, India’s home ministry was set to meet with smartphone industry executives on Friday, but the meeting was postponed.

#8 A journalist in the Netherlands has tested AI-powered glasses “that can instantly identify strangers on the street”

A Dutch journalist just tested a pair of AI-powered glasses that can instantly identify strangers on the street.

No government database. No police system. Just public data and off-the-shelf AI.

You look at someone and in seconds, their name, LinkedIn, and background appear before your eyes.

The scariest part? You can’t really stop it.

You can ban it, regulate it, add blinking red lights… but once tech like this exists, someone will always find a way to use it.

Once these sorts of devices become widely available, there will be nowhere to run and nowhere to hide.

#9 A nationwide digital ID is being introduced in the UK, and soon you will not be able to get a new job without one…

Once introduced, digital ID will be used to verify a person’s right to live and work in the UK.

It will take the form of an app-based system, stored on smartphones in a similar way to the NHS App or digital bank cards.

The ID will include information on the holders’ residency status, name, date of birth, nationality and their photo.

When he first announced the scheme, Sir Keir said: “You will not be able to work in the United Kingdom if you do not have digital ID. It’s as simple as that.”

#10 The digital ID program in France “is moving from pilot to scale”

France’s national digital identity app, France Identité, has enabled the creation of more than 3.2 million digital IDs, according to new figures.

Among these, approximately 525,000 identities have been fully certified, meaning that users have completed an in-person verification process at their local town halls. This means that more than half a million French digital IDs are ready for the EU Digital Identity (EUDI) Wallet, according to Joerg Lenz, head of marketing at Namirial Group.

“France Identité is moving from pilot to scale,” Lenz wrote on LinkedIn, following the TRUSTECH Event held in Paris on Wednesday.

#11 In Illinois, there is such overwhelming demand for digital IDs that some people are being forced to wait

Mobile IDs became available in Illinois on Wednesday, but due to the high demand, some residents are finding themselves waiting a little bit longer.

A number of residents trying to download the digital ID to their Apple wallet received the following message: “Due to the high volume, your state’s service is currently busy.”

Users can then answer the question, “Do you want to be notified when it becomes available?”

This is where the entire world is heading.

As the Big Brother control grid gets tighter and tighter, the stage is being set for unprecedented tyranny on a global scale.

Tyrants of the past could only dream of having the sort of AI-powered tools that we possess today.

If you do not submit to the digital gulag that is being constructed all around us, eventually you may not be able to buy, sell, get a job, or open a bank account without proper digital identification.

What would you do then?

You might want to start thinking about that, because things are only going to get crazier from here.

Michael’s new book, entitled “10 Prophetic Events That Are Coming Next,” is available in paperback and for the Kindle on Amazon.com, and you can subscribe to his Substack newsletter at michaeltsnyder.substack.com.

About the Author: Michael Snyder’s new book, entitled “10 Prophetic Events That Are Coming Next,” is available in paperback and for the Kindle on Amazon.com.  He has also written nine other books that are available on Amazon.com, including “Chaos”“End Times”“7 Year Apocalypse”“Lost Prophecies Of The Future Of America”“The Beginning Of The End”, and “Living A Life That Really Matters”.  When you purchase any of Michael’s books, you help to support the work that he is doing.  You can also get his articles by email as soon as he publishes them by subscribing to his Substack newsletter.  Michael has published thousands of articles on The Economic Collapse BlogEnd Of The American Dream, and The Most Important News, and he always freely and happily allows others to republish those articles on their own websites.  These are such troubled times, and people need hope.  John 3:16 tells us about the hope that God has given us through Jesus Christ: “For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.”  If you have not already done so, we strongly urge you to invite Jesus Christ to be your Lord and Savior today.

Wolverine Holster – From Craft Holsters

The way you carry your EDC handgun is a very personal decision. While the appendix and 2 o’clock are the dominating positions, many people choose to carry differently. One of those positions is cross-draw. The reasons for a cross-draw setup are numerous, but once again, it is ultimately a personal decision. A company well known for making high-quality holsters, especially leather holsters, is Craft Holsters—one of their finest for those interested in cross-draw is the Wolverine.

The Wolverine Holster from Craft.

Wolverine Holster – For Cross Draw EDC

The Wolverine Holster is a lightweight, premium compact OWB cross-draw holster, perfect for hunters, drivers, or those in sedentary professions. Its open-top design, paired with the cross-draw functionality, ensures quick action and solid retention, all secured by double stitching. Crafted from high-quality leather, this holster offers exceptional value without compromising on performance or durability.

The Wolverine Holster is designed for cross-draw.

High Quality Leather

The Wolverine Holster is designed for lightning-fast reactions in any situation, packed into a compact yet durable body — which is why it’s named after the fierce and agile ‘Wolverine.’ Crafted for cross-draw carry in a canted 10-11 o’clock position, this holster is made from premium Italian leather and double-stitched for enhanced durability and a snug, secure fit. Featuring a reinforced top for smooth re-holstering, the holster rides close to the body, making it an excellent choice for those seated a great deal. The strategically placed cant also keeps the rear of your pistol away from your body, offering a comfortable and discreet high-ride carry. 

The Wolverine Holster is handcrafted.

Wolverine Holster

The Wolverine holster is designed and hand-made to fit the gun like a glove. It is thermo-molded to an exact replica of the firearm. The leather layers are double-stitched at stress points by a robust German thread to ensure both perfect retention and long-term durability. The belt slot and belt tunnel are reinforced with extra stitching and are compatible with 1.5″ wide, 0.15″ thick belts. The holster features a partial body shield, and the top is reinforced with an extra leather layer to ensure that re-holstering is just as quick and comfortable as the draw. The entire leather surface and edges are sealed with an additional protective lacquered finish for enhanced durability.

For more information, visit Craft Holsters.

Features

  • Cross-Draw High Ride Holster
  • 10 – 11 o’clock Carry Position
  • Lightweight, Low-Profile Design
  • Crafted from Full-Grain Premium Italian Leather
  • Partial Sweatguard
  • Open Muzzle Design
  • Custom, Glove-like Fit
  • Reinforced with Double Stitching
  • Reinforced Top

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The post Wolverine Holster – From Craft Holsters appeared first on Athlon Outdoors Exclusive Firearm Updates, Reviews & News.

The Constitution vs. the Commander-in-Chief: The Duty to Disobey Unlawful Orders

This article was originally published by John W. Whitehead and Nisha Whitehead at The Rutherford Institute. 

“The United States boldly broke with the ancient military custom of swearing loyalty to a leader. Article VI required that American Officers thereafter swear loyalty to our basic law, the Constitution… Our American Code of Military Obedience requires that, should orders and the law ever conflict, our officers must obey the law… This nation must have military leaders of principle and integrity so strong that their oaths to support and defend the Constitution will unfailingly govern their actions.”—“Loyalty to the Constitution” plaque located on the grounds of the United States Military Academy

Every military servicemember’s oath is a pledge to defend the Constitution against all enemies, foreign and domestic.

It is not an oath to a politician. It is not an oath to a party. And it is not an oath to the police state.

Yet what happens when those same men and women are being told—by their own government—that obedience to power and loyalty to a political leader come before allegiance to the Constitution they swore to uphold?

That question isn’t hypothetical.

It is the moral line now being tested in real time, and it goes to the heart of what kind of country we are: do we live in a constitutional republic governed by the rule of law, or in a militarized police state where “legality” is whatever the person with the most power and the biggest army says it is?

The answer becomes painfully clear when you look at what our troops are being ordered to do—and what “we the people” are tacitly allowing them to be ordered to do—in the so-called name of national security.

Members of the military are now being deployed domestically to police their fellow American citizens in ways that trample the spirit, if not the letter, of the Posse Comitatus Act.

It’s legally dubious enough that the military is being used to enforce immigration crackdowns and police protests in American cities. But now they’re being tasked with killing civilians far from any declared battlefield in the absence of an imminent threat—all while being told that questioning the legality of those missions is itself a form of disloyalty.

So, which is it: obedience to the Constitution or the Commander-in-Chief?

At the center of this latest maelstrom is a report that Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth issued a verbal order to “kill everybody” on a maritime vessel in the Caribbean that was suspected of transporting drugs.

According to multiple accounts, after an initial “lethal, kinetic” strike disabled the vessel and killed nine men on board, a second strike was carried out to kill two survivors clinging to the wreckage—an alleged “double tap strike” that legal experts warn could constitute murder or a war crime if the survivors no longer posed a threat.

In all, the boat was reportedly hit four times: twice to kill the eleven occupants on board and twice more to sink the boat.

Intentionally killing survivors clinging to the remains of a boat in the middle of the ocean, in the absence of an imminent threat, whether or not the U.S. is engaged in “armed conflict” with drug cartels, is unlawful.

Murder on the high seas is a crime.

Even the Pentagon’s manual on the law of war says combatants who are “wounded, sick, or shipwrecked” no longer pose a threat and should not be attacked.

Some Republicans who have, until now, turned a blind eye to the Trump administration’s most egregious offenses against the Constitution appear reluctant to let this one slide.

Not surprisingly, the Trump administration has done an about-face.

Hegseth—who bragged about watching the September 2 strike live—now claims he wasn’t in the room when the second strike happened.

Suddenly, the White House—which had been gleefully chest-thumping over its power to kill extrajudicially—is signaling its willingness to scapegoat subordinates in the chain of command.

The man with his head on the chopping block is Adm. Frank M. “Mitch” Bradley.

Clearly, it’s a lesson learned too late: when you’re dealing with power-hungry authoritarians, loyalty is no guarantee of protection. It’s always the men and women who carry out the unlawful orders—not the ones who give them—who end up paying the price.

Here’s the problem, though. While the media fixates on who will bear the blame for ordering the double-tap strike, the government war machine is moving forward, full steam ahead.

The Sept. 2 boat strike was part of a broader Trump administration campaign of maritime attacks that has already killed at least 80 people at sea, all without a formal declaration of war or due process—evidence of who they were or what they had done—to warrant an extrajudicial execution.

This is yet another of Trump’s everywhere, endless wars—this time at sea—sold as toughness on “narco-terrorists” at a moment when his poll numbers are slipping, economic promises have failed to manifest, and new Epstein-related revelations continue to surface.

When presidents manufacture new fronts in a forever war whenever they need a distraction, we should all beware.

The Trump administration has tried to frame this preemptive maritime war on suspected “narco-terrorists” as a “non-international armed conflict” with designated terrorist organizations.

Yet what it amounts to is an undeclared war, launched in international waters, without just cause and without congressional authorization.

The legal landscape is not murky—it is clear.

Most of the public debate has revolved around those technical legalities—what kind of conflict this is, which statutes apply, which court might have jurisdiction—yet what is really at stake is whether we are training a generation of American troops to believe that loyalty to a leader can excuse disobedience to, or even override, the Constitution.

Three bodies of law converge here: the Constitution’s allocation of war powers, the international law of armed conflict, and the Uniform Code of Military Justice.

First, there has been no declaration of war by Congress. Under the Constitution, only Congress can declare war. The president cannot start wars based solely on his own authority.

Second, the law of armed conflict and the law of the sea forbid killing shipwrecked survivors who pose no immediate threat.

Third, the Uniform Code of Military Justice requires every servicemember to refuse manifestly unlawful orders.

A command to “kill everybody” is precisely the kind of order these guardrails were written to forbid.

The rationale that “I was just following orders” is not a defense to war crimes. That is the core lesson of the Nuremberg Trials and the modern law of armed conflict.

Of course, the police state wants mindless automatons who obey unquestioningly.

Reporting on the trial of Nazi bureaucrat Adolf Eichmann for the New Yorker in 1963, Hannah Arendt explained, “The essence of totalitarian government, and perhaps the nature of every bureaucracy, is to make functionaries and mere cogs in the administrative machinery out of men, and thus to dehumanize them.”

Arendt, a Holocaust survivor, denounced Eichmann, a senior officer who organized Hitler’s death camps, for being a bureaucrat who unquestioningly carried out orders that were immoral, inhumane, and evil. This, Arendt concluded, was the banality of evil, the ability to engage in wrongdoing or turn a blind eye to it, without taking any responsibility for your actions or inactions.

Coincidentally, the same year that Arendt’s book Eichmann in Jerusalem: A Report on the Banality of Evil was published, Martin Luther King Jr. penned his “Letter from a Birmingham Jail,” in which he points out “that everything Adolf Hitler did in Germany was ‘legal’ and everything the Hungarian freedom fighters did in Hungary was ‘illegal.’ It was ‘illegal’ to aid and comfort a Jew in Hitler’s Germany.”

In other words, there comes a time when law and order are in direct opposition to justice.

Every military recruit is supposed to learn in basic training that there is a duty to obey lawful orders, and an equal duty to disobey manifestly unlawful orders.

No president—Republican or Democrat—can override that principle.

The Commander-in-Chief may issue orders, but he does not get to erase the Constitution or rewrite the laws of war by fiat.

The White House rationale—that a preemptive “kill everybody” attack was conducted in self-defense to protect U.S. interests—should terrify every American.

If the government can redefine “self-defense” to justify killing incapacitated survivors on a sinking boat, then it can justify killing anyone—at home or abroad, in uniform or out of it.

No matter how the White House spins it, however, these are crimes and those involved—from Hegseth on down—could find themselves in legal jeopardy and should be held accountable.

The pressure on the military is mounting.

The Orders Project, a nonpartisan initiative that helps connect service members with outside legal counsel, reports a spike in calls from military personnel concerned that they could be asked to carry out an illegal order or pressured to take part in missions that violate their training in the laws of war.

Given Hegseth’s much-publicized approach to waging war without constraints—he has openly derided the military’s Judge Advocate General corps and championed a more “unshackled” approach to lethal force—these concerns are reasonable.

Indeed, there has been enough cause for concern that six members of Congress, all with military or national security backgrounds, recorded a message reminding servicemembers what the law requires: “Our laws are clear. You can refuse illegal orders…you must refuse illegal orders. No one has to carry out orders that violate the law or our Constitution.

For re-stating what every recruit is taught in basic training, these lawmakers have been accused by President Trump of “sedition” and branded as “traitors” who should be arrested and punished by death. The FBI has reportedly opened an investigation. Hegseth has even threatened to recall one of the lawmakers—Senator Mark Kelly, a retired Navy captain—to active duty in order to court-martial him for his remarks.

The message from the top could not be clearer: allegiance to the Constitution is a crime.

Every person like myself who has served in uniform has experienced the tension between following orders and honoring that oath. Discipline requires obedience, but a constitutional republic requires lawful obedience.

That is why the oath matters.

It is not an oath to a man, a party, or a policy agenda. It is an oath to a charter of law: the Constitution.

At West Point, a 1943 “Loyalty to the Constitution” plaque proclaims: “should orders and the law ever conflict, our officers must obey the law.”

That principle is not antiquated. It is the foundation of American civil-military relations. Remove it, and what remains is not a republic but a personality cult with weapons.

The danger becomes even clearer when you examine the rhetoric now shaping national policy.

For instance, Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem recently urged the president to impose “a full travel ban on every damn country that’s been flooding our nation with killers, leeches, and entitlement junkies.”

A harsher irony is hard to find.

A good case could be made that it is, in fact, the U.S. government that is flooding our nation with killers, leeches, and entitlement junkies. Just consider Trump’s steady spate of presidential pardons, the latest to Juan Orlando Hernández, the former president of Honduras, who had been sentenced to 45 years in prison for conspiring with drug traffickers to move cocaine into the U.S.

According to U.S. prosecutors, Hernández—quoted as saying he wanted to “shove the drugs right up the noses of the gringos by flooding the United States with cocaine”—took bribes from drug traffickers and had the country’s armed forces protect a cocaine laboratory and shipments to the U.S.

So the president is blowing up boats in the Caribbean, he claims—without proof—are ferrying drugs, all the while pardoning someone who was convicted of conspiring to transport hundreds of tons of cocaine into the U.S.

This corrupt double standard has become business as usual for the Trump administration.

Now Trump wants to launch land attacks on Venezuela, a country that is conveniently richer in oil reserves than Iraq, all in the so-called name of fighting the war on drugs.

The rapid buildup of U.S. military forces in the Caribbean—which, according to news reports, includes a range of aircraft carriers, guided-missile destroyers, and amphibious assault ships capable of landing thousands of troops, as well as a nuclear-powered submarine and spy planes—far exceeds what would be needed for a supposed counternarcotics operation and is worrisome enough on its own.

Yet conscripting the military to do the dirty work of the police state—and then throwing them under the bus for doing so—takes us into even darker territory.

The U.S. government’s weaponization of the armed forces for political power is a betrayal of the Constitution, but it is also a betrayal of the very men and women who swore to give their lives for it.

This has never been about public safety.

As I make clear in my book Battlefield America: The War on the American People and in its fictional counterpart The Erik Blair Diaries, this has always been about power—who wields it, who is protected by it, and who is crushed under it.

And once a government shows a willingness to break faith with its defenders, it will break faith with anyone.

A government that can discard its military service members can discard its whistleblowers and truth-tellers who expose corruption.

A government that can discard its military service members can discard its journalists, judges, and watchdogs in the press and the courts who insist on transparency and limits to power.

A government that can discard its military service members can discard its political opponents and dissidents, its religious and racial minorities, its immigrants and asylum seekers, its small business owners and workers who organize, its parents and community members who speak up locally, and any citizen who dares to say “no” when the state demands “yes.”

This betrayal of those who swore an oath to the Constitution is not an accident—it is a warning.

Be warned.

Aegis Kinetic Group Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier

In the operational world, few things are as important as a good plate carrier. It needs to be durable, well-designed, and fit well. Carriers that rattle around and fall apart can mean the difference between success and failure in some cases. A company well known for high-speed gear is Aegis Kinetic Group. Today, they are releasing the new Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier and Operating System.

The Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier

Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier and Operating System

Aegis Kinetic Group has now released the Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier and Operating System. Since the release of Vertex 1.5 two years ago, they have focused on optimizing their design approach and manufacturing processes. They aim to create a product that balances affordable production cost with a professional feature set. Initially designed for maritime applications, the Vertex has also shown its performance across various environments. This includes professional deployments to the Arctic and Ukraine.

Made from water-resistant 500D Cordura laminate and weighing 15.2 oz, the Vertex can fit any S/M/L plate variant. It uses Velcro One Wrap adjustment tabs and a loop-lined plate backer. XL plates are compatible, depending on plate thickness. Ballistic plates are top-loaded into the front and rear panels of the Vertex. The reinforced bottom ensures plate security during wear. An open design encourages immediate drainage during maritime and over-the-beach operations.

The Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier is made from 500D Codura laminate

Native Wire Routing

The Vertex also features native wire routing beneath the carrier’s surface. It has sewn-in shock cord lashing points and other mounting options for PTTs, as well as integrated attachment loops for FIRSTSPEAR TUBES Buckles. Other quick-release options are also available. The Vertex can be attached to existing S/M/L slick plate carriers to increase capability. It collapses for packing in a rucksack, duffel bag, or cargo pocket.

The Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier has a native wiring system.

Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier

Designed with third-party compatibility in mind, the Vertex can accommodate both hook-and-loop and shock-cord cummerbunds. It is also compatible with placards using Crye-style attachments, G-Hooks, and buckles. The Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier will be supported by the Vertex Operating System. This includes additional components such as removable front and rear load-bearing frames, as well as unique placard, cummerbund, and pouch options.

For more information, visit Aegis Kinetic Group.

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Affiliate links create a financial incentive for writers to promote certain products, which can lead to biased recommendations. This blurs the line between genuine advice and marketing, reducing trust in the content.

The post Aegis Kinetic Group Vertex 2.0 Plate Carrier appeared first on Athlon Outdoors Exclusive Firearm Updates, Reviews & News.

Cap-and-Invest: A US Program to Ration Energy and Then Tax the Fations

This article was originally published by Rhoda Wilson at The Exposé.

Several US states have implemented or are developing Cap-and-Invest programs, including CaliforniaWashington State, and New York State.   

Climate change catastrophists will say that these programmes are to save the planet from global warming.  But as with all things related to the climate change agenda, it has nothing to do with climate change and everything to do with money and control.

Carbon taxes and cap-and-invest systems have much in common.  Both are market-based policies to make “carbon emitters” pay for their “emissions.”

Using climate change jargon, Cap-and-Invest is a tool designed to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by setting a declining cap on total emissions from covered sources, such as large industrial facilities, fuel distributors, and utilities.  Each covered entity must hold an allowance for every tonne of emissions it produces, with the total number of allowances equal to the annual emissions cap, which decreases over time to achieve long-term climate goals.  This system creates a financial incentive for businesses to reduce emissions, as they can either cut their own pollution or purchase allowances from others, with the price of allowances determined by supply and demand.

In the following, David Wojick explains in simple terms what this nefarious programme is all about, using New York as the example.

New York’s Climate Law Will Ration Fossil Fuels And Tax The Rations

By David Wojick, as published by CFACT on 3 December 2025

New York Governor Hochul says the emission reduction regulations required by the Climate Act are infeasible and ruinously expensive. She has yet to explain this, so here is my simple assessment.

The regulatory programme has two very different mechanisms. First, they ration your fossil fuels. Then, they tax you heavily on the ration you get. The rationing is infeasible; the tax is ruinous.

The programme is called “cap-and-invest,” which sounds good. Note the missing word: “tax.” You need the tax to get the money to “invest.” An honest name is “cap, tax, and spend.”

The cap is the amount of each type of fossil fuel that can be sold to consumers during a given period. Permissions to sell this amount are called allowances, and they cost money.

Here is how the Cap-and-Invest website explains it. (There is almost no other information.)

The cap is the ration, and the allowances are the ration tickets that have to be bought. Note that for heating and transportation fuels, the distributor, not the consumer, buys the allowances. Of course, these costs will be passed on to the consumers. We are mostly talking about gasoline and diesel for transportation, fuel oil for heating and gas for heating and cooking.

Let’s just look at the cap. These fuels are all essential for living, which makes rationing a very bad plan. The rationing cap has to quickly come down and a lot under the Climate Act. Statewide emissions have to come down by a whopping 30% by 2030, just four years away.

Fuel use may have to come down even more because other emissions cannot be reduced that much. New York has provided no information about this looming threat, and there is no time to implement new technologies.

Rationing by definition creates shortages, because it means people get less than they would otherwise use. Let’s take home heating fuel oil as a simple case. About 20% of New York homes are heated with fuel oil.

Say you live in one of these homes. Your fuel oil supplier has bought allowances for the coming year, and you get a share of that oil. But thanks to the cap, it is less than you burned keeping warm last year. How low will you have to turn your thermostat in order to get through the year on that much oil?

There is no way to know because it depends on how cold it gets. If it is cold, you might run out of your allowed share in mid-December. Then what? The programme is silent on this life-threatening question.

Moreover, if it is a cold year, then most people might run out of heating oil in winter. Heck of a Christmas that would be.

The same is true for gas heat but at a much larger scale, since most New York buildings are heated with natural gas. You cannot just suddenly use a lot less gas with a fixed amount allowed. It is a prescription for running out of heat in winter. This fiasco also applies in more complex ways to cars, trucks, and electricity.

Clearly, capping fuel use is infeasible. Energy is fundamental to our way of life.

About the Author

David Wojick, PhD, is an independent policy analyst and senior advisor to CFACT. As a civil engineer with a PhD in logic and analytic philosophy of science, he brings a unique perspective to complex policy issues. He specialises in science and technology-intensive issues, especially in energy and environment.

How to Escape a Sinking Car: A Step-by-Step Survival Guide (2025)

TL;DR: How to Escape a Sinking Car

  • You have under one minute before the pressure seals the doors shut.
  • Release your seatbelt first, then open or break a side window to escape.
  • Push out headfirst and swim toward light or bubbles to reach the surface.
  • Call for help only after you’re above water and breathing safely.
  • Practice the Seatbelt → Window → Out → Up sequence to prepare for a real sinking car emergency.

You have under one minute to escape a sinking car. In fact, most vehicles stay afloat for only 30 to 60 seconds before water pressure locks the doors and shuts down the power. Every second counts, and every move you make determines your chances of survival.

Each year, hundreds of people die after their vehicles end up in deep water. Studies from safety agencies show that most drownings happen within a few minutes because drivers hesitate or waste time calling for help. Knowing the right actions before an accident happens can change that outcome. This guide walks you through what to do first, how to break a window, and how to emerge from the water. Once you know the sequence, you can get out of a drowning vehicle safely even under pressure.

Why Are Doors Hard to Open Underwater? 

Even professional swimmers can’t force a car door open underwater. The problem isn’t the lack of strength but the strong hydropressure. When water surrounds your vehicle, it exerts a force of hundreds of pounds per square foot on the doors’ exterior. If you try to open one too soon, that force will flood the cabin and drag you down. Only when the water levels match inside and out can a door move freely. By then, it’s usually too late. It’s safe to say that the side window is your quickest way out.

How to Escape a Sinking Car: A Step-By-Step Guide

image 17

This timeline shows what to do during each stage of a sinking car. The seconds mark how fast water fills the cabin, from the first splash to the moment pressure locks everything tight.

0–5 seconds

  • Remember: Don’o’t call 911 yet. Those seconds matter. By the time they answer, your car may be sinking halfway below the surface.
  • Stay alert and focused. Take one steady breath out to stay calm and clear your head. Your goal right now is awareness. Find where the windows and seatbelt release are, and get ready to move.

5–15 seconds

  • Unbuckle your seatbelt. Slide your thumb under the strap so it won’t snag on clothing.
  • Press the driver-side window switch and lower the window all the way. If your car has a manual crank, turn it down fully.
  • If power still works, lower a second window as a backup exit.

15–45 seconds

  • Clear any loose items that might block your path.
  •  Plant one hand on the windowsill to guide your body.
  •  Angle your chest toward the opening, push off the headrest, and slide out of the window headfirst. 

45–60 seconds 

  • If the water keeps rising or the window refuses to move, shift immediately to the “window stuck” plan in the next section.

How to Escape a Sinking Car If the Window Won’t Open 

image 64

If the power fails or the window glass won’t break, stay calm. You still have a way out. The goal now is to create an exit using tools if you have them, or to wait for pressure to balance if you don’t.

If You Have a Tool:

  • Spring-loaded glass punch. Aim for the lower rear corner of a side window, as it’s the weakest point on tempered glass. Using the spring-loaded tool, strike the area once with firm pressure. When the window shatters, brush away loose edges using your sleeve and move out quickly.

If You Don’t Have a Tool:

  • Stay calm and hold your breath as the water rises.
  • When the cabin fills almost to your chin, that means the pressure inside and outside the window will soon start to match.
  • Plant both feet against the door for leverage and pull the door handle firmly.
  • As the door opens, sweep an arm through the gap, stay low, and swim out in a smooth line toward the light or bubbles.

Up and Out: Surface and Shore

Once you’re out of the car, your next goal is reaching the surface. The water’s dark and cold, so follow these simple cues to get to safety.

  • Follow the bubbles. They always rise straight toward the surface.
  • Kick with short, steady strokes. Keep your chin up and eyes on the light above you.
  • Roll onto your back. Float to rest and look for light, a shoreline, or solid ground.
  • Reach land, then call 911. Give your location and explain what happened.
  • Treat cold shock. Remove wet layers, wrap up in something dry, and warm yourself quickly. Even brief cold exposure can sap energy and slow your recovery.

Key Takeaway Box
???? Remember this order: Seatbelt → Window → Out → Up

Gear Picks 

Keep these compact, affordable tools within arm’s reach so you can act fast during a sinking car situation. 

  • Good: Spring-loaded glass breaker with a built-in seatbelt cutter clipped to your visor.
  • Better: Two glass breaker tools (one for the driver and one for the passenger), plus a small waterproof flashlight.
  • Best: Two tools, two lights, and a floating retractable tether to avoid losing gear underwater.

Placement Tip: Avoid glove boxes as they often get jammed after impact. Mount tools in open, reachable zones.

Escape a Sinking Car: Myths and Facts 

False information about car-water escapes are all over the internet. These quick facts separate real survival steps from the common myths that might put your life at risk.

  • “Break the windshield.” Myth. Windshields are laminated and won’t shatter like side glass.
  • “Airbags trap you.” Myth. Airbags deflate within seconds. Keep moving toward your exit.
  • “Call for help first.” Myth. Every second counts. Escape first, then call for help.
  • “Windows never work underwater.” Myth. Power windows often still operate briefly after impact.

Final Takeaway: Readiness Over Luck

When a car sinks, survival depends on taking the correct steps in the proper order. Within about a minute, rising water can short out power, jam doors, and block exits. Knowing the sequence and practicing it helps reduce panic and gives you control over the situation. Again, to escape a sinking car, remember to Seatbelt → Window → Out → Up.

Run a short driveway drill this week and mount your escape tools in an accessible vehicle compartment. In the end, it’s the skill and knowledge that will get you safely to shore.

Quick Answers to Common Questions about How to Escape a Sinking Car:
Readers ask the same practical questions about how to get out of a submerged vehicle. Keep these facts in mind when you train or teach others.

Q: Can I open the door of a submerged vehicle?
A: Usually not at first, as water will push hard against the door’s exterior. Wait for the water level inside to rise near the outside level, or use a window exit instead. Doors can open only after the internal and external pressure of the car matches.

Q: Should I call 911 before I try to escape a sinking car?
A: No. Escape first, call second. You have a short window before the car’s power and doors fail. Get yourself out, then call for help from shore or a safe spot.

Q: What if the power windows stop working?
A: Try a manual crank if your car has one. If not, use a glass-breaking tool if you have one. If you have no tool, hold your breath and let water rise to your chin so pressure matches, then force the door.

For more training and setup ideas, read our guides on EDC Tools, Car Emergency Kits, and Flood Safety

How to Winterize Your Car the Smart Way

How To Winterize Your Car: A Quick Summary

  • Time & cost: Plan ~90 minutes and $60–$180 in consumables (tires extra).
  • Tire decision: Switch to winter tires when highs stay ≤45°F (7°C); replace snow tires at ≤4/32 in tread.
  • Battery go/no‑go: After the car sits 4+ hours, a healthy battery shows 12.6–12.8 volts. During a 10‑second crank at 70°F (21°C), voltage should stay at or above 9.6 volts. In colder weather, lower the target by about 0.1 volt for every 10°F drop (example: at 30°F, pass ≥9.2 volts). If the battery is 4–5 years old or fails these checks, replace it.
  • Coolant/fluids: 50/50 mix protects to –34°F (–37°C); use winter‑rated washer fluid (≤–20°F / –29°C).
  • Cadence: Recheck tire pressure & washer fluid monthly through March; run the Ten‑Minute Family Drill before the first storm.

Cold weather can punish the car systems that your family relies on most. Oil thickens and batteries lose cranking power even as tires harden and braking distances stretch. Also, windows fog and freeze just when you need to see clearly. The point of winterizing is not to bolt random accessories onto your car; it is to remove weak links methodically so the car behaves predictably when temperatures drop. We will move front‑to‑back and system‑by‑system, pairing each task with a simple acceptance test so you know when you are done.

The smart approach to winterizing your car  work in the following order:

  • Fluids → Battery and Starting → Tires and Brakes → Visibility → Heat and HVAC → Roadside Readiness.
  • Plan for about 90 minutes and $60–$180 in consumables (winter tires not included).
  • Work on a level surface with the parking brake set, and keep children clear of the vehicle while it is running.

Step 1: Fluids & Cooling System

how-to-winterize-your-car-check

When winterizing your car, always remember that a modern engine depends on the correct coolant mixture to prevent freezing. A season‑appropriate oil and washer fluid are also better equipped to handle short trips and spray.

What to do:

  • With the engine cold, confirm that the coolant reservoir is at the “Full” mark and that the mixture protects to at least –34°F (–37°C). Use a simple coolant tester or check the label on a fresh 50/50 premix. Top up with the same chemistry already in the system.
  • Inspect the upper and lower radiator hoses and small heater hoses. You are looking for swelling, soft spots, or crusted leaks at clamps. Replace anything suspicious now rather than in January.
  • Change the oil if your service is due within the next 1,000 miles. Choose the winter grade listed in your owner’s manual (for many vehicles that is 0W‑20 or 5W‑30). Thinner winter‑rated oil reduces strain on the starter and battery.
  • Drain the summer windshield fluid from the reservoir and refill with a winter‑rated formula (look for –20°F / –29°C or lower on the label). This prevents refreeze on the glass

Fluids Acceptance Test: Your car’s engine should have  no visible leaks, the coolant level is steady at the mark, and the washer sprays cleanly without streaking or freezing on a short test drive.

Step 2: Battery, Cables & Cold Starts

Cold is the enemy of batteries. A borderline unit that seems fine in October will leave you stranded at dawn in December.

How to Winterize Your Car Battery and Cables:  

  1. Let the car sit for at least four hours, then read the battery with a multimeter. A healthy 12‑volt battery shows 12.6–12.8 volts at rest. If you see 12.2 volts or less, charge the battery fully before you judge its condition.
  2. Perform a load test. Crank the engine while watching voltage or ask a parts store to test for you. Under load at 70°F (21°C), voltage should not fall below 9.6 volts. Expect slightly lower numbers in colder weather; the idea is to avoid a deep sag.
  3. Clean the terminals with a brush, tighten the clamps, and apply a thin film of dielectric grease to deter corrosion. Check the main grounds while you are there.
  4. Decide proactively. If your battery is four to five years old or fails the load test, replace it before the first deep freeze. Choose a unit with the correct group size and a respectable cold‑cranking‑amps rating for your vehicle.

Car Battery Acceptance Test: The engine starts on the first try without the lights dimming dramatically, even after sitting overnight in cold weather.

Step 3: Tires & Brakes

how-to-winterize-your-car-tires

Braking distance and steering control come down to three things in winter: tread depth, compound, and pressure. Brakes must also be predictable when ABS engages on slick surfaces.

How to Check Your Tires and Brakes:

  1. Measure tread depth across each tire. Winter traction falls off quickly below 4/32 in (3.2 mm). If you live with regular snow or ice, replace tires that measure at or below this mark.
  2. Decide whether to switch to dedicated winter tires. If your local temperatures sit at or below 45°F (7°C) most days, winter tires with the Three‑Peak Mountain Snowflake symbol provide a dramatic safety margin. Mount them on a spare set of wheels for quick swaps.
  3. Set pressures cold to the numbers on the driver‑door placard. Expect pressure to drop about 1 psi for every 10°F decline in temperature. Recheck monthly through winter.
  4. Inspect the brakes. Confirm pad thickness of at least 3–4 mm, look for uneven rotor wear, and test the brake fluid for moisture if you have a strip. Top up only after you rule out leaks.

Wheels Acceptance Test: The TPMS light stays off, the car tracks straight under moderate braking, and ABS activation is smooth in an empty‑lot test at low speed.

Step 4: Visibility (Glass, Wipers & Lights)

Visibility is your most valuable winter feature. A clear windshield and bright, correctly aimed headlights prevent small problems from becoming accidents.

How to Ensure Visibility During Winter

  1. Install winter‑type wiper blades (beam‑style with an ice‑shedding boot). Clean the windshield thoroughly with glass cleaner and a final alcohol wipe to strip film.
  2. Test the front and rear defrosters. If the rear grid has broken lines, repair them with a simple conductive‑paint kit. Replace any blown fuses.
  3. Do a dusk walk‑around. Check low beams, high beams, turn signals, brake lights, and reverse lights. Clean cloudy lenses or schedule a restoration. Aim headlights if they appear too high or too low.
  4. Stage your de‑icing tools where you can reach them from the driver’s seat: a scraper, a small bottle of spray de‑icer, and a microfiber towel. Treat door seals with silicone and lubricate locks with graphite so they do not freeze shut.

Visibility Acceptance test: With the engine idling, the windshield clears in three minutes or less using the defrost setting, and every exterior light is bright and working.

Step 5: Heat & HVAC

A car that heats slowly invites fogged glass and unhappy riders. A few quick checks keep the cabin comfortable and the glass clear.

Try This Basic Heat Check: 

  1. Replace the cabin air filter if it looks dirty. Restricted airflow slows defogging.
  2. Bring the engine to operating temperature and test the heater on all vents. If the air is only lukewarm, verify coolant level and have the system bled; a partially clogged heater core may need a flush.
  3. Fit rubber floor mats for winter. They trap snowmelt, prevent slippery pedal surfaces, and make cleanup simple.

Heating Acceptance Test: The cabin feels warm within ten minutes at idle and the glass clears promptly with the A/C‑assisted defog setting.

Step 6: Emergency Roadside Plan

how-to-winterize-your-car-roadside-safety

Even with a well‑prepared car, storms can close roads and strand drivers almost immediately. Your goal is to stay warm, visible, and reachable until help arrives.

Pack the following and leave it in the vehicle all winter:

  • A compact shovel and a small traction aid (traction boards or a bag of non‑clumping kitty litter).
  • Jumper cables or a charged lithium jump pack.
  • Blankets, hats, gloves, and a few chemical hand warmers.
  • An LED headlamp with spare batteries.
  • A basic first‑aid kit and any prescription medication your family cannot miss for 72 hours.
  • Shelf‑stable snacks and water. Leave headspace in bottles so they can freeze without bursting.
  • A 12‑volt phone charger and a charged power bank.
  • Reflective triangles or LED beacons.
  • An ice scraper, snow brush, and a microfiber towel.
  • A paper map of your local area in case phones die or coverage disappears.

Roadside Emergency Acceptance Test: If the car will not move, you can keep the family warm, visible, and in contact for at least three hours without outside help.

Practice Winterizing Your Car Via a Ten‑Minute Family Drill

Strong plans survive due to constant practice. Before the first storm hits, try to run this quick car winterization drill.

  1. Assign roles: one person starts the car and sets defrost; another verifies lights; a third checks the roadside kit. Set a timer for ten minutes.
  2. Confirm that the windshield clears, all exterior lights work, the phone charges from the car, and everyone knows where the blanket and scraper live.
  3. Decide where the car will park on the coldest night (prefer a garage or a spot out of the prevailing wind). Note the decision on a sticky note inside the garage door.

If any step fails, fix it now. Once the family can complete the drill smoothly, you are winter‑ready.

Take Note: Regional & Legal Notices You Should Know

Rules differ across states and provinces, especially for traction devices and chemicals in washer fluid. If you travel mountain passes, check whether chains are required during posted conditions and buy a set that fits your tire size. If your winters regularly dive below zero, use a block heater on a GFCI‑protected outlet and set a timer to pre‑warm the engine two to four hours before departure. Route any cords you use so they won’t trip anyone.

Quick Winterization Troubleshooting Guide:

  • Slow cranking on cold mornings: Charge the battery fully and retest. If cranking voltage sags badly, the battery is at end of life.
  • Smearing wipers or refreezing spray: Degrease the glass with alcohol, fit winter blades, and confirm that the washer fluid is truly winter‑rated.
  • Persistent TPMS light: Set pressures with the tires cold, then drive 15 minutes. If the light remains on, check the spare (some cars monitor it) or have sensor batteries evaluated.
  • Lukewarm cabin heat: Verify coolant level and bleed air from the system. If temperature still lags, a heater‑core flush may be in order.
  • Frozen doors or locks: Warm the key in your gloved hand, use de‑icer sparingly, and treat seals with silicone after thawing to prevent a repeat.

Final Pass/Fail Checklist

How do you know if you mastered how to winterize your car? Here’s a handy checklist to see how far you’ve gone:

  • The car starts on the first attempt after sitting overnight in the cold.
  • Braking is straight and predictable; the ABS test in an empty lot is uneventful.
  • Headlights are bright and properly aimed; the windshield clears within three minutes at idle.
  • The cabin warms within ten minutes and stays clear of fog.
  • The roadside kit is stocked and reachable without digging through the trunk.

Deep Dives: A  2‑Minute Cheat Code on How to Winterize Your Car

hot-to-winterize-your-car

Cold‑Weather Battery (CCA, sizing, and replacement rule)

  • Find the factory CCA on your battery label or owner’s manual.
  • Sizing rule: Choose replacement ≥ OEM CCA; in sub‑zero climates, aim for +15–25% CCA if it fits your tray.
  • Health check: Resting voltage after 4+ hrs 12.6–12.8V; during a 10‑sec crank ≥9.6V @ 70°F (subtract ~0.1V per 10°F colder). Fails → replace.
  • Terminals: Clean/tighten; add a thin film of dielectric grease.

Winter Tires vs. All‑Season (decision in 30 seconds)

  • If daily highs are ≤45°F (7°C) for weeks, pick 3PMSF winter tires. You’ll stop shorter and steer better even on dry, cold pavement.
  • If you only see a couple of light snows and roads are plowed fast, high‑quality all‑weather (not plain all‑season) is a compromise.
  • Tread rule: For snow/ice, replace at ≤4/32 in. AWD helps you go; winter tires help you stop.

Chains Without Damage (quick setup)

  • Sizing: Match the code on your sidewall (e.g., 225/60R17) to the chain chart—near‑fits chew fenders.
  • Dry run: Practice once on dry pavement.
  • Install sequence: Lay flat → drape over tire → connect inner fastener → connect outer → tighten with tensioner.
  • Speed: Max 30 mph (check your kit). Re‑tension after 100–200 yards.

72‑Hour Car Kit (family‑safe quantities)

  • Warmth: 1 blanket/person + 2 chemical hand warmers/person/day.
  • Light/comm: 1 LED headlamp + spare batteries; 1 car charger + 10,000 mAh power bank.
  • Food/water: 2,000 kcal/person/day (bars, nuts); 1–2 L/person/day. Leave headspace so bottles can freeze without bursting.
  • Extras with kids/pets: diapers/wipes; formula & measured water; leash, collapsible bowl, 72‑hr food zip‑bag.
  • Stow point: top layer of trunk or behind a hatch net—no digging required.

Acceptance checks for the cheats above

  • Battery passes voltage tests and cold‑start on first try.
  • Tires measure >4/32 in and are appropriate for your climate; TPMS off.
  • You can install both front chains in ≤5 minutes each on a dry run.
  • The trunk kit sustains everyone for 3 hours stranded and covers 3 winter days of short drives.

How to Winterize Your Car: Bring It Home

Winter driving rewards preparation, not luck. You have just removed the weak links that strand most drivers in the first cold snap. Now convert that work into a habit and a safety margin you can count on. Before the weekend ends, complete these three actions to lock in your winter readiness:

  • Print this page (File → Print → Save as PDF) and tape the checklist near the garage door.
  • Stock the trunk kit using the quantities in 72‑Hour Car Kit under Deep Dives — 2‑Minute Cheats above.
  • Set a calendar reminder to recheck tire pressures and washer fluid on the 1st of each month through March.

Your move: take ten minutes tonight to run the family drill and stage the scraper, blanket, and jump pack where everyone can reach them. Soon, the next icy morning won’t be a gamble but a systems check that you’ve already passed.

The M60 Machine Gun -The Pig

The M60 Machine gun is one of the most iconic weapons to hit a battlefield. It was nicknamed “The Pig” because of its weight and its appetite for ammunition. Despite its issues, many soldiers grew to respect the weapon and trusted it through long deployments and rough terrain. Despite its quirks, many soldiers grew to respect the weapon and trusted it through long deployments and rough terrain.

The M60 Machine Gun.

The M60 Machine Gun – An Iconic Military Weapon

The M60 began in the years after World War II. The Army wanted a general-purpose machine gun that matched the performance of German designs, such as the MG42. Engineers studied captured guns and worked to combine the best traits with American manufacturing. The first models entered service in the late 1950s and were rapidly adopted across infantry, aviation, and armored units.

The M60 was chambered in 7.62 NATO and could fire up to 600 rounds a minute. When mounted, the gun delivered steady fire that shaped battles across several theaters.

The M60 Machine Gun saw its first real use in Vietnam.

Vietnam

Vietnam became the proving ground for the M60. Heavy jungle and unpredictable terrain placed a high demand on reliability. Many guns performed well, but the M60 also showed some weaknesses. The design used stamped parts and a pinned trunnion that could loosen under stress. The bipod attached to the barrel forced gunners to remove it during barrel changes. Minor issues like these added strain during long missions and kept armorers busy.

Even with its challenges, the M60 saw constant use. Infantry squads depended on the gun to break ambushes and control open ground. Door gunners mounted M60s on helicopters and delivered fast and accurate fire during extractions. Patrol boats also carried the gun and used it with significant effect along rivers and coastal areas. Troops trusted the M60 because it delivered heavy fire when needed most.

The M60 Machine Gun saw changed in the 1980's.

1980’s

By the 1980s, improvements had arrived. The M60E3 was lighter and easier to handle. The E3 model cut several pounds from the original design and enabled faster barrel changes. Heat shields improved safety and extended the life of key components. Some units appreciated the upgrades, though the lighter barrel warmed quickly under sustained fire.

The final major update came with the M60E4, also known as the Mk43 in Navy service. This version strengthened the design and addressed many long-standing issues. The E4 offered better durability, improved feed reliability, and more mounting options for modern accessories. Special operations units used the E4 for years and trusted it as a compact and dependable 7.62 platform.

As time passed, the M60 began to give way to new designs. The FN MAG, known as the M240 in U.S. service, demonstrated greater reliability in harsh environments. The M240 used strong construction and held up better under continuous fire. Many units phased out the M60 during the 1990s and early 2000s. Still, the M60 never vanished completely and continues to serve in various roles with some forces and agencies.

The M60 Machine Gun was effective at suppressive fire.

Impressive Firepower

The M60 leaves a mixed but respected legacy. It offered impressive firepower but demanded careful maintenance and skilled gunners. Those who mastered the weapon gained a strong sense of confidence during missions. The sound of the gun carried across valleys and jungles, becoming part of American military memory.

Many veterans recall the weight on long patrols. They remember belts of 7.62 draped over shoulders and the effort required to keep the gun ready. They also remember the comfort of knowing the M60 could hold off a threat.

Collectors and historians still value the M60. Its silhouette remains instantly recognizable. The top cover, the pistol grip, and the long barrel create a profile tied to decades of service. Modern reproductions and semi-auto variants keep the design alive in civilian circles. Museums also display several models that trace the evolution from early guns to the refined Mk43.

The M60 Machine Gun was chambered in 7.62 NATO.

The M60 Machine Gun

The M60 stands as a symbol of a long era in American arms development. It served in harsh climates and was a lifesaver when the rounds started thumping downrange. While it is becoming increasingly rare in military armories, the Pic will always be remembered as a solid machine gun.

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