There is more benefits to creating homemade bug spray than just removing harmful chemicals from your life. Sure, DIY cleaning and pesticides are way better than those mixed up in large vats but what if that bug spray finds its way into our survival kits?

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Killer Bugs: Keep Disease Carrying Insects and Parasites Out

What Your Kit is Missing

There are two common sense items that many people overlook when preparing a kit. This kit could be a bugout bag or even a simple survival kit.

While you might have the high speed water filter, multiple methods for starting fire, a simple and effective shelter and maybe you even have something like a frog gig for procuring food, what are you missing?

Many people don’t think about bug spray. In fact, sunscreen and homemade bug spray are often overlooked because they don’t sell them in “tacticool” containers that attach to MOLLE or slip onto a gun rail. We get a little full of ourselves in the survival and prepping world.

That high powered AR15 cannot protect you from the effects of sleep deprivation, if you are up swatting mosquitoes all night.

Dealing with bugs is not a joke and it can go way beyond discomfort and sleep loss. Still, many people build bugout bags that are void of a means to keep the bugs away.

Disease and Discomfort of Dealing with Bugs

While ticks, chiggers and mosquitoes might seem like a nuisance and nothing more, they can carry disease. These diseases can range in severity but some of the worst can really wreak havoc on the human body.

Ever heard of malaria? While not a problem in the US, this mosquito borne disease infected 220 million people last year and killed 435,000. We have our own problems in the US with things like Lyme’s Disease and a growing list of mosquito borne illnesses.

The scariest thing about Lyme’s Disease is that its misdiagnosed regularly. People can go decades without understanding their affliction.

Keep these little monsters at bay, and the diseases they carry, with this homemade bug spray recipe.

Homemade Bug Spray Recipe

When it comes to homemade bug spray, it doesn’t get much easier than this. Honestly, this is a mix up and spray recipe. The base is vodka and that goes a long way with deterring bugs. The addition of the essential oils also helps with that.

Whether you decide to use the coconut oil, olive oil or vegetable glycerin is up to you. Just understand that you need something to smooth this out. You will have problems if you spend all day spraying alcohol on your skin or your kids’ skin.

INGREDIENTS

• ¼ Cup of vodka
• ¼ Cup of water
• 1 TBSP of fractionated coconut oil, olive oil or vegetable glycerin
• 50 Drops of lavender essential oil
• 1 TSP of pure vanilla extract

PROCESS

This mix all goes into a spray bottle or a mason jar and can be shook to combine. That is literally the entire process!

Interesting fact about vanilla: Gnats, flies and mosquitoes among many other bugs, hate the smell of vanilla.

How to Store or Pack your DIY Homemade Bug Spray

When we are talking about long term storage for this spray you could keep it in that mason jar. The alcohol base will hold this mix for a long time. However, you should keep it out of direct sunlight. The oils will not last forever and direct sun will only shorten shelf life.

Now, you do not want to carry around a big spray bottle in your backpack. There are a couple ways to put this mix to use.

1. You could find a small vile with a spray top. Something like a little cologne bottle would work well. Some hand sanitizers work this way as well. The smaller and more compact the better. Just be sure you have some sort of safety or lid to avoid spraying it all into your bag.
2. You could take small squares of cloth (old shirt or shemagh cut up) and place them into a Ziploc. Pour some of your homemade bug spray into the Ziploc bag to coat the cloth. Don’t add a bunch of extra liquid to the bag but use enough to get them wet. Now these can be used as wipes to apply.

Pack up your homemade bug spray and take it on your next adventure. Or add it to your bugout bags, get home bags and anywhere else you might need it. You’ll be prepared to keep those buzzing and biting creatures at bay.

For the most recent copy of Survivor’s Edge or American Frontiersman or to subscribe, go to OutdoorGroupStore.com.

There’s nothing like the sweetness of honey, and when SHTF you can sustain yourself with a supply of it. Beekeeping gives us many useful products and food, including honey and beeswax. Beeswax is used for both candles and soap, and honey has dozens of uses.

Bees are the Livestock for Serious Preppers

While bees are much smaller than the animal livestock that come to mind, they produce many products that are useful and can be kept in storage for years.

1. Hives do not take up much space. This makes it sustainable as far as land use. Bees pollinate all flowering plants. If you have a hive and a garden, the garden has nearby pollinators to keep vegetables growing throughout the growing season.
2. Honey is the perfect food and can last for centuries. A good, healthy hive can produce 50 pounds of honey. When supermarkets close, and sugar and sweeteners are hard to come by, a reliable source of honey will be valuable. Honey is a great source of calories if you are ever in a situation where food is scarce. It boosts the immune system and can be used in canning and baking.
   There are primarily two different kinds of honey that beekeepers harvest from their hives. The most common type of honey is liquid honey extracted from the comb. This is easily extracted with centrifuge equipment called an extractor. Most beekeepers use ready-made extractors, but some make their own.
   The second form of honey produced is known as comb honey. This is when the honey is left within the original wax combs. Comb honey is a lot less common than liquid honey, but many people prefer the more natural flavor.
3. Beeswax provides light and soap. This can be used to make slow burning candles perfect for grid down situations. Beeswax can also be used in soaps and this soap lasts longer. Beeswax helps to waterproof leather and other textures that have to be out in weather.

Bees For Healing

There are medicinal properties to honey that go far beyond allergy prevention. Propolis is the glue that bees make to repair and weatherproof their hives. This has antibiotic properties that can be used to fight infection. And some research indicates that propolis also has anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and wound healing properties. Propolis can be collected from hives and needed when pharmacy shelves are bare.

Bee pollen is one of the most complete and compact foods in nature. It is loaded with vitamins, minerals, proteins and enzymes. It’s been used for centuries in Chinese medicine to boost energy, fight acne, fight depression, improve blood pressure and aid in digestion. Install pollen traps on your hives to collect the left-over pollen.

How to Start a Beehive

1. Bees can usually be kept anywhere, but be sure to check with local county regulations. Rural preppers will have less trouble finding a convenient spot for a hive. Suburban preppers can keep a hive in the backyard. A small fence is recommended as a precaution to keep kids and pets away. You want bees to fly higher past an obstacle such as a fence, so a stream of bees won’t go into your neighbor’s face.
2. Check with surrounding neighbors before getting started. If anyone has a big problem with your plan, this is the time to resolve issues. Some people are deathly allergic to bees, so you may have to reconsider. Set up in another location with a friend or family member, and offer to share the benefits.
3. Buy or build the beehive. Beehives are available on Amazon or your local beekeepers organization can help you. Beehives can be made from a variety of materials.
4. Buy necessary equipment. This includes a queen catcher, bee smoker, bee feeders, and other accessories that you will learn more about as you get into beekeeping.
5. Purchase safety gear such as a beekeeper suit. This will include a hat, veil, safety footwear and gloves.
6. Purchase bees for the new colony. Make sure you buy these bees are from a reputable source. Your orders should be placed by February at the latest. Apiaries will begin shipping orders in March and April, depending on your location. Most will ship with the United States Postal Service. The queen bee will come in a separate container. The rest of the bees will be feeding on a sugar solution while they are being shipped.

Installing Bees into the New Hive

Step 1 – Meet your bees
Before opening the package, spray some sugar syrup outside of the box to prevent the bees from flying around. Make sure your smoker is lit and smoking nicely. You may not need it as the bees will be docile from transportation, but you want to be safe just in case. Pry open the box with your hive tool and dislodge the bees by vigorously shaking the package.

Step 2 – Remove the queen
If your bee package has the queen in a separate cage, leave the queen until after all bees have been installed in the hive.

Step 3 – Remove hive frames
Remove some frames from the top of the hive. The number of frames to remove and the placement for the false bottom will depend on the size of your new colony.

Usually, it is recommended to place the false bar about 10 bars from the front of the hive. This way you can establish a brood nest right in front of the hive.

Step 4 – Put the bees in the hive
Empty the package into the hive through the opening. This is where your bee brush or feather will come in handy. Scatter any clusters around the bee cage and ensure that all bees are transferred from the package into the hive.

Additional Notes after Installing Bees

• Don’t touch the hive for at least a week. The bees need time to accept the queen. If the queen has been released from her cage, then she has been fully accepted by the colony. If not, you may need to give the hive a helping hand.
• Keep the feeder full during this time.
• Bees will be very confused and fly haphazardly. In no time they will adjust and become more coordinated.
• When you notice undertaker bees taking out the dead bees, then you’ll know that the colony is doing well. Also, look out for bees gathering pollen, this is another sign that the colony is thriving.

After a successful installation, you’ll need to give the bees time to adapt to their surroundings. Inspect the hive and ensure that they have started gathering pollen and nectar. They should begin to build the comb.

Starting a Hive without Buying Bees

If you are going to catch bees in the wild to start your own hive, the easiest swarms to collect are bees on tree branches. All you really need to do is cut the branch and gently place or shake the branch inside a container.

Bees on a fence post or flat surface are not that easy to collect. You will need to guide the bees into the box by brushing them gently with a bee brush or cardboard. They can also be guided to the container by using a smoker to direct and encourage them to move in the opposite direction.

Using a smoker will entail spraying the box with a sugar and water solution to attract the bees and keep them in the container. Then placing the smoker in the direction that you DON’T want the bees to go. Sometimes using more than one smoker may be necessary to get the swarm where you want them.

To transfer the bees from the container to your hive, gently shake the container and give them a nudge. Make sure the hive is ready to receive the new bees.

Don’t forget to wear safety clothing. Also, it’s a good idea to take a smoker on your bee collection adventure so that you can calm any ill-tempered bees down. Basically, follow the rest of the steps the same way to get the bees and the queen used to your hive.

Bees are not as aggressive as their reputation often lends them to be. Bees tend to focus on their roles in their colony. Beekeeping does require a bit of work and a new skill set. But, if it fits your lifestyle, this could one day prove to be one of your most valuable preps.

Written by R. Ann Parris on The Prepper Journal.

If you have a squash bug (SB) or squash vine borer (SVB) problem, it can be a big problem. Some areas have even greater trouble due to increased season length and mild winters.

Despite SB’s greater versatility, I hate SVB even more. It’s utterly devastating, and requires much more attention ahead of time, because once the plant wilts, it’s pretty much too late.

Even if you’re not growing yet and don’t have any problems, push through this one anyway, just in case. You’ll need the fixes and preventatives on hand ahead of time.

Recognize the Enemy

SVB is a moth larvae that chews into and then up through vines of susceptible cucurbits. The plant suddenly wilts, then dies. It limits its destruction to cucurbits and doesn’t usually bother thin-stemmed melons or thin-stemmed gourds.

The SB is a beetle, and spawns freakish little spidery babies that go through green and gray stages. In addition to munching all kinds of plants, they spread disease. There are similar-looking pests with very similar control and prevention difficulties.

The eggs are the best identifier ahead of time. SB lay tight, regular patterns. SVB lay fewer, more irregularly.

SVB usually lay on stems, as close to the base of the plant as possible, but I’ve found them upwards of 1’ above the ground and some trailing up under leaves.

SB wants to lay on the underside of leaves, but I’ve found those diamond clusters on stems, too.

Check other plants, too – It’s not as frequent, but SB will lay on beans, peppers, sunflowers, okra, etc. SB adults will be found anywhere, too.

Conventional Traps, Spray & Powder

In their early stages, SB is somewhat vulnerable to Sevin spray. Powder isn’t super effective and it doesn’t bother the eggs. If SVB larvae aren’t crawling across it as they hatch, it doesn’t bother them, either. Spray can be more effective on more of the life-cycle stages, but it’s “more” – it’s not total wipe-out.

Some find neem oil effective, particularly in the early life stages.

All of them have to catch the bugs to be effective. SB are active enough to evade that spray by leaping away. SVB are inside, so you have to fill those stems to catch them.

Big Ag may be able to blanket enough dust and spray to do so, but most home growers even with a tow-behind disburser are going to struggle to blanket a big enough area fast enough.

!!! – Pesticides aren’t super effective on SB and SVB, but they are wicked effective against pretty much every single beneficial bug in our gardens, from worms and fireflies and their slug-hunting larvae, to pretty much every single pollinator, bees to butterflies to hoverflies and wasps, and can even affect the gut microbiology of hummingbirds and bats. – !!!

Traps work well, but require specific attractants and have to be replaced or rejuvenated.

Conventional Prevention’s

Squash vine borers can pop up after years of not growing squashes anywhere within 200-500 yards. Squash bugs are the same, with an added problem: They like squash. They don’t need it.

That means crop rotations aren’t super effective in breaking this particular pest cycle.

The smaller our spaces, the less effective it becomes.

The mobility of the moths and adaptability of the beetles means that for most home-consumption and small-plot growers with less than an acre (‘bout a football field) per crop butting into another half- or full acre of clean, bare earth, the advice to keep a “clean” garden and avoid mulches doesn’t actually help much.

Without that space, there are too many other options for them: tree and shrub windbreaks, perennial crops and ornamentals, wood piles, overgrown ditches and fence lines, woods, lawns and pastures, straw and hay piles, gaps under sheds.

Weigh that against the values of mulches before going the bare-earth road.

Unfortunately, control once they’re established is difficult, too. Enough to make you fantasize about spraying gas and lighting a match.

Tried & True: Squish ‘Em

Good luck catching the moth. (If you find something that doesn’t affect good bugs, please share.)

To help lower the load for the beetle, carry a jar to the garden to flick them into, and a board you can squash them against.

That board is handy for collecting SB’s – so is cardboard. Lay a chunk near the plants, flip it, stomp.

Tried & True: Pluck Eggs

Attentively checking stems and leaves for little red eggs is the most effective way to control damage.

You can scrape with a butter knife or thumbnail, or try wrapping good, sticky duct tape or packing tape around hands or fingers. You’ll have to press pretty firmly.

I do not just let the eggs fall to the surface under the belief stuff will eat them there (maybe, but maybe not). Nor do I deliver them to birds (some may escape). They get carted to the trash – the trash. In a world without trash, seal them in jars/pails.

Tried & True: Stick Juveniles

I like tape for snagging itty-bitty, speedy SB babies, although you have to really stick them or they can wiggle free.

There’s also the theory of stabbing the SVB by sticking pins/toothpicks in the stems and base of squash either as a preventative or as soon as frass is visible. It has merit, especially if a plant is months into growing but isn’t anywhere near harvest, particularly in a situation where we need this food.

Squashes develop really wide bases, though, and may have more than one larvae, so make sure you’re thoroughly stabbing to kill. They can easily crawl out and chew in elsewhere otherwise.

Foil – Fail

I have tried full-sheet widths of foil in a ring around squashes from the time they pop up. I have interwoven strips around as much of the base of the vines as possible.

The foil at the base in a wide collar akin to brassica collars might be helping, but it’s limited. I have no luck with other materials, either.

Again, I see SVB eggs way up on stems, not only at the base – mama lays on whatever’s exposed, and babies adapt.

Conditionally: Sacrificial Hubbard

Yes, SB-SVB do like Hubbard. I have ringed lots with it, with 20-yard gaps to the nearest other squash, and thrown it in right beside the other cucurbits. Sometimes it’s the only victim or the damage elsewhere is limited, but it’s at best 50-50 and it does nothing to lower the pest loads.

In Big Ag, the Hubbard goes out early and farmers kill the bugs on it to lower pest loads for direct-seeded cash crop squash.

Otherwise, once they’ve killed the Hubbards, SB/SVB have plenty of time to leap over to other cucurbits and kill them, too.

Yellow Traps – Fail

This is where you hang something fairly smooth and happy yellow (cups, frisbees, painted canning lids, yogurt tubs), lightly coat it in something semi-sticky or clogging (kitchen and garden oils, thinned-down glues), and hang it so that itty-bitty munchers get snagged and stuck or coated and suffocate. Wipe, re-coat, repeat.

I have never actually seen hoverflies, fireflies, brown wasps, or striped and fuzzy bees attached, no big butterflies or moths, just the teeny-tiny stuff, so it’s not really hurting. However, I’ve only nabbed juvenile SB on versions stuck down into the dense sections of foliage or laid out in a ring under foliage, and it’s few and far between and mostly a waste of time and resources.

(Again, it can take significant pressure to snag those SB babies – you need a serious level of sticky, and for them to willingly crawl onto it to get stuck, or to fall/jump onto it; they’re not flying or leaping to it on purpose like white-fly.)

Cup Collars – Fail

These guys are effective against some types of pests for other types of crops, just like foil and cardboard collars, but, again, SB lays mostly on leaves and is not restricted to cucurbits – it just likes them – and SVB will lay well up on the mature stem, with the wormy larvae crawling down as far as possible to enter but in no way restricted to entry right at the base of squash.

In the time when the plants are small enough to fit in the cups, their vines aren’t actually vulnerable to borer larvae, still too skinny.

Too, those cups only reach a couple inches up. Any SVB that come by later are going to have nice, exposed stems and leaves protruding to lay on, with their young readily able to slide down and chew in.

Squash are big plants with wide bases and sprawling vines by type – you only contain them in a cup for a little while. Then, there are months of season left for SVB to lay on exposed, viable vines.

So… once again, while effective against some pests, it’s a waste of time and resources for SVB/SB. 

Semi-Helpful: Bury Nodes

There’s the belief that once the adventitious root nodes of longer vines is buried, the adult SVB moth doesn’t know it’s there, and won’t lay her eggs there to burrow in. The idea that she can find a seed-started stem but not a buried node… I don’t know how that even gains traction.

Plus, again, she’ll lay way up on stems. Where they are doesn’t matter.

However, there is a benefit: It creates another feed point for the plant.

If you can kill the larvae in the original stretch(es), active nodes can keep the plant alive long enough to mature any fruits further down the vine.

Tried & True: Row Covers

They work, but there’s some issues that come up, because you have to seal the edges.

SB require really sealing the edges. They’ll crawl under any loose sections. It’s a definite time and resource suck to bury-unbury-rebury every time we need access.

Mesh is my choice control for the consistent SVB problems all over my area, though. They’re not quite as small and tough, so it doesn’t require sealing to the same degree. (I wouldn’t bother if we only had SB.)

Second Hitch: Pollinators can’t get in. That means hand pollinating more than seed stock. It’s also totally devastating for squash bees, so plant some melons for them.

Combatting SB/SVB

It takes some attention and it can be laborious, but we can mitigate SB/SVB infestations. There aren’t many critters that prey on SB/SVB, so it’s all on us. Since the most effective methods require time and in some cases materials, we have to make some preparations so we can act immediately when they show up.

Be Safe out there and be sure to check out The Prepper Journal Store and follow The Prepper Journal on Facebook!

The post Survival Gardening: Squash Bugs and Borers appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

I believe the neck gaiter (a.k.a. face shield mask) is one of the most versatile survival accessories.

So which is it? Neck gaiter or face shield? Well…it’s sort of both but it’s also not quite either.

You see, traditionally a “face shield” was a large plastic see-through device used in police riots or chemical cleanups.

While the term “neck gaiter” is normally thought of as a cold-weather alternative to a scarf.

But what I’m talking about today is something a bit different. It’s more of a face shield mask/neck gaiter/survival bandana combination…

Regardless of what we call it – these pieces of cloth are essential for survival, preparedness, and outdoor adventures.

And I think everyone should own at least one.

Note: in this article, I will primarily be calling them neck gaiters but lots of people call them face shields.

So, today, let’s discuss everything I know about neck gaiters, such as:

• What Is a Neck Gaiter Anyways?
• The Many Reasons (and uses) Of A Neck Gaiter
• The Key Features To Look For In A Quality Neck Gaiter
• The Best Neck Gaiters On The Market Today

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WHAT IS A NECK GAITER / FACE SHIELD ANYWAYS?

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Technically speaking, a neck gaiter is an article of clothing worn about the neck for warmth.

It is a closed tube of fabric, often thick fleece, merino wool, synthetic wicking, or knit material. It can be slipped on and off over the head. And it can also be pulled up over the mouth to keep out wind and sand.”

It’s simply a swath of cloth worn around your neck to protect it from wind, sun, debris.

But it can also be easily lifted over your mouth and/or nose. This helps to protect your face from dirt, debris, bugs, dust, or easy identification….

Identification? Yes, just like the traditional ski mask.

The ski mask has become a symbol of nefarious activities for decades. And a neck gaiter can be used to conduct similar mayhem without easy identification.

Anyways, the neck gaiter has come a long way over the years. As textiles have become more synthetic, and more breathable, neck gaiters have become more comfortable.

And with the advancement in printing technologies, you can get one in a color or design that feels like “YOU”.

THE MANY REASONS (and uses) OF A NECK GAITER

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The sheer number of neck gaiter uses is incredible. There are so many reasons why you should own one.

Let’s start with a couple of easy reasons why…

UV Protection

One of the most popular (and best) uses for a neck gaiter is to keep harmful rays off your neck. This can work wonders in many outdoor sports and recreation situations.

Let’s cover a few of the most popular ones:

Fishing Neck Gaiter

If you enjoy fishing for long hours, you know just how nasty the sun can be while out on the water.

Normally the sun’s UV rays beat down on you from above. But water reflects UV rays sending burning beams up at you from below.

Dangerous UV rays hitting us from below is not something you think about often. So, we tend to forget to apply sunscreen to our necks. So without some sort of protection – you can get a nasty sunburn on your unprotected neck.

Well, with a neck gaiter (especially one with UV protection) you keep harmful rays off your tender neck

Skiing / Snowboarding

The suns rays bounce off the water surface, and they bounce off the snow…

So it’s the same idea for snowboarding and skiing as it is for fishing. However, with winter sports you’re also interested in keeping your neck and face warm from the bone-chilling winds while on the slopes.

Face Protection / Face Shield

Your face and neck are exposed when riding. Be it a motorcycle, bicycle, boating, ATV or any other activity where you’re moving quickly without a windshield for protection.

I don’t know about you, but I’m not a fan of adding a windshield to a motorcycle. I mean, the point of riding is for it NOT to feel like you’re riding inside a car…

Now for long road trips, a motorcycle windshield can make sense but not for afternoon cruises.

I also hate the feeling of gnats pelting my nose, mouth, and face at 45 MPH. It’s both gross and hurts. But with a good neck gaiter pulled up – these nasty projectiles are no longer a big deal.

And there are more than just bug missiles causing problems. There’s also dust, leaves, gravel and sometimes rubber pellets from tires flying towards your face.

So if you’re like me and not a fan of adding a windshield to your bike, wear a neck gaiter instead.

Project Dust – Debris

With any outdoor project, you run the risk of breathing in dirt, dust, and debris. For small projects, it’s usually not a big deal but for larger ones, it can become a serious health issue.

For example, you might be a fan of woodworking (a great survival skill for TEOTWAWKI). And if you’re running a saw all day long, you might want to avoid inhaling a bucket’s worth of sawdust.

Or if you’re a construction worker or farmer who runs a tractor for a living – you already know there are days when you eat dust (literally).

If this sounds like you, then it’s time you invested in a face shield to avoid this occupational hazard.

Warmth

I’ll be honest – I’m not a “scarf guy”. At least not in the traditional sense. You see, sometimes I think there are two types of people in the world.

Those who wear scarfs and those who wouldn’t be caught dead wearing one – I’m in the second category.

But a neck gaiter; now that’s a different story…

After I wore my neck gaiter out on a frigid cold walk with my dog, I was never the same. All these years, I’d never fully realized how much warmer it is when your neck was wrapped in a layer of warmth.

So now if it’s below freezing outside, I always wear my neck gaiter. I don’t always pull it up over my mouth and nose, but I do when it’s really cold or extremely windy.

And if you love winter sports, a neck gaiter is a must. Whether you snowboard or ski, a neck gaiter with a cool logo or design is worth every penny.

Comfort and Multi-Use

Now this “benefit” or reason is highly dependent on your personality. But for me, I’ve learned to enjoy having something soft and warm around my neck.

It’s both comfortable and comforting knowing I have a tool that can provide protection from the sun and the cold.

I can also use it for all sorts of other purposes in a pinch. I can turn it into a headband to keep sweat from dripping into my eyes. This is great if I’m doing some hard work outside in the heat of the day.

I can also use it as a makeshift helmet liner to add a small layer of comfort between me and a hard bike helmet.

And for anyone with long hair, it can be used as a stylish hairband to make a ponytail. This is extra helpful when it’s muggy out and you need a quick way to get your hair up off your neck.

And are even more ingenious ways to use a piece of neck gaiter cloth in a pinch. So I see it as a highly useful, highly effective survival multi-tool of sorts.

That’s why I also keep one packed away in my bug out bag, go bag, and get home bag – just in case.

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Incognito

Lastly, a neck gaiter CAN provide a layer of identity protection.

But it’s not a cloak of invisibility. Lifting a neck gaiter over your mouth and nose and won’t make you disappear from view…

Sure, you can hide your facial features (making you harder to identify). But you’re also wearing something that sticks out like a sore thumb. It gets noticed.

With a neck gaiter pulled up, you’re no longer applying the “gray man theory”. You become MORE notable while walking around. Then people take note of your other features; your height, your vehicle, your eye color, your hairstyle, etc.

So the neck gaiter is only helpful to hide your identity if you’re doing something criminal. Because if you’re robbing a bank – you’re going to be noticed anyways. So in that situation, a neck gaiter pulled up can provide some ability to keep your identity hidden.

With that said, if you’re the type of person who robs banks, then I’m sure you have more elaborate identity concealing measure than using a neck gaiter…

But the overall point still stands. If people can’t see your major facial features (such as your nose, mouth, chin, etc.) you’ll be harder to identify in a line-up.



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THE KEY FEATURES TO LOOK FOR IN A QUALITY NECK GAITER

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Not all neck gaiters are created equal. And with new textile and printing processes, neck gaiters just keep getting better…

So let’s go over a few of the features to look for when buying a new neck gaiter.

Breathable

First off, this is important if you plan to use your neck gaiter in hot weather OR cold weather. If this sounds like you, then you’ll want to go for a newer material that’s both breathable and not scratchy.

One reason why I don’t wear a wool scarf is that it itches my neck. Wool is warm, and it can be somewhat breathable but it’s not comfortable.

Instead, look for a neck gaiter that features breathable, lightweight, and moisture-wicking technologies. These types of neck gaiters will stay cooler in the blazing hot summer heat.

And they will also avoid the dreaded moisture trapping that happens when you raise the gaiter over your mouth and nose in the winter.

Because a neck gaiter that traps moisture from your mouth or nose will quickly become a wet neck gaiter. And a wet neck gaiter in the winter will quickly become a frozen neck gaiter. A frozen neck gaiter is a cold neck gaiter. And this defeats the entire purpose of wearing it in the cold in the first place.

UV Protection

If you’re going to invest in a neck gaiter make sure it’s one with built-in UV protection. Sure any cloth material is better than nothing when it comes to sun protection.

However, I’ve worn a super-thin shirt when outside all day. I was assuming I was protected, only to discover the sun’s UV rays blasted straight through it.

So make sure the material you choose for you neck gaiter is made to block UV rays. This keeps your neck from looking like an angry lobster at dinner…

Stretchiness / Fit / Size

Everyone has a different sized neck. So the best neck gaiters take this into account by using flexible stretch materials.

That way, whether you have a thick neck or a slim neck the gaiter will fit. Especially when pulled up around your mouth and nose.

Color / Design

This “feature” is highly personal. Do you want something that looks menacing like a skeleton? OR are you more likely to wear something with a pretty flower pattern on it?

Or maybe you like to keep things simple with a flat black design.

The design options of a neck gaiter CAN (and often DOES) make or break a sale.

So just be aware if you don’t love the design options available. You can always keep shopping around until you do. Just don’t skimp on all the other “more practical” features for the design alone.

Price

As always the price can be a feature. If you can get your hands on a decent quality FREE neck gaiter or face shield mask – then you have nothing to lose. So you might as well give it a try, right?

But if you have to fork over $100 for a neck gaiter, well, then it best be the most amazing neck gaiter I’ve ever seen. And it should be able to cook dinner and wash the dishes too!

The point is, price always comes into play with any survival gear. FREE can be amazing but it can also mean cheap POS as well. But since the risk is so low, it’s normally worth checking out.

Or you can invest a few more dollars on something that’s a bit more proven. Your choice.

9 BEST NECK GAITERS / FACE SHIELDS ON THE MARKET TODAY

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Finding the “best” neck gaiters on the market today can be an overwhelming task. You can spend hours and hours hunting around online. Wasting time reading hundreds of reviews, only to end up being more confused than ever.

The number of neck gaiters and cloth face shields coming on the market is stunning.

That’s why we’re here to help you cut through the chaos and show you our top favorite neck gaiters on the market today:

1 – “American Woods” Multi-Use Face Shield

The “American Woods” Multi-Use Face Shield is the neck gaiter I want to highlight first.

Why? Because it’s of excellent quality AND affordability.

Let’s cover the quality first.

This American Woods Face Shield is ideal for hunting, bike riding, fishing, and any outdoor activity.

It’s also great for protecting yourself from breathing harmful dust when mowing the lawn or on construction sites.

This Face Shield is durable, it won’t fall off, it keeps its colors and it holds its shape!

So if your an active outdoorsman, or woman, you won’t be disappointed.

Plus, at the time of this article being published, you could get The American Woods Face Shield for FREE (just pay s&h). So, Click Here Now to see if this fantastic deal is still available!

Check Out Today’s Deal

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2 – SA Face Shields – 5 Pack Bundle

These SA Face Shields have unique patterns & are multifunctional.

There are 12 different ways you can wear one for your adventures or daily life. Wear it as a face shield, bandana, wristband, hair tie, headband, neck gaiter, doo rag, balaclava, face mask, beanie, etc.

The SA Face Sheilds include both SPF 40 & dust protection.

They also wick away moisture to keep you dry and add an extra layer of warmth for your ears, nose, mouth, head, and neck in the cold.

These SA Face Shields are made with a durable microfiber technology, which comes in at a length of 20.5 inches, and a width of 10.5 Inches.

They are also backed by a lifetime warranty.

Finally, on a per face shield basis – you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better value…

Check Out Today’s Price



3 – Mossy Oak Seamless Bandana Face & Neck Cover

This Mossy Oak Seamless Face & Neck Cover will keep you protected from the sun. It’s rated at UPF 30 for great sun protection and blocks up to 97% of both UVA and UVB rays.

This Mossy Oak Neck Gaiter is made out of 100% polyester microfiber.

It’s woven together so it features a soft, seamless, fit. It’s approximately 19.5 x 9.5 inches and due to its ability to stretch, it’s one size fits most!

Check Out Today’s Price

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4 – KastKing Sol Armis Neck Gaiter

KastKing Sol Armis makes a quality neck gaiter rated at UPF 50 for both face and neck protection.

It’s also highly breathable due to its unique poly-spandex material.

This KastKing Neck Gaiter also has a 4-way stretch to p0rovide a snug comfortable fit so your gaiter stays in place all day long.

The KastKing Neck Gaiter was designed by an in-house team of elite anglers for a comfortable fit. So if you’re an angler this is the best neck gaiter to protect you from the sun.

Check Out Today’s Price



5 – SUNMECI Neck Gaiter Windproof Mask

The SUNMECI Neck Gaiter is made of a versatile, super soft fabric. It’s perfect to keep you comfortable in extreme temps.

Plus, the SUNMECI Neck Gaiter has built in UV protection.

So it’s a no-hassle, no worry, high-quality neck gaiter for any outdoor activity.

Check Out Today’s Price

6 – Tough Headwear Fleece Neck Warmer – Gaiter

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This Neck Warmer/Gaiter by Tough Headwear is ready for anything but looks less menacing and more stylish than other neck gaiters.

It’s a double-layered neck warmer and will keep your neck warm and cozy, even in the coldest winter weather.

This Tough Headwear neck warmer is also reversible. One side a stylish design, the other classic black. So you can rock one style on the slopes and another going out with friends. 

It’s 3 accessories all in one – an ear warmer headband, a face mask, and neck tube.

It also comes with a lifetime warranty, so you can’t beat that!

Check Out Today’s Price

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7 – JOEYOUNG 3D Face Sun Mask, Neck Gaiter

The JOEYOUNG 3D Face Shield Mask is unique with its visual 3D effect. 

This 3D effect is great for camouflage if you’re a hunter. 

This neck gaiter also passes the SGS UPF TEST – so it blocks up to 95% of the harmful ultraviolet rays.

The JOEYOUNG Neck Gaiter is made of 100% Polyester microfiber. It has exceptional absorbing and wicking features. So it’s cool in summer but warm in winter.

The standard size is 18.9 inches long, 9.4 inches wide and 0.4 MM thick. It’s also highly stretchable so it easily fits both teenagers as well as adults of all ages.

Finally, its a no risk to purchase with their 100% money-back guarantee!

Check Out Today’s Price

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8 – Terra Kuda Face Clothing Neck Gaiter Mask

The Terra Kuda Face Neck Gaiter is designed to always be mission ready.

Whether you’re in the backcountry, on the water, or cutting a mountain trail, these face and neck covers are designed to protect you from the outdoor elements.

Unlike other leading brands, The Terra Kuda Face Neck Gaiter’s unique design outperforms the competition while staying in place over your nose, even during strenuous activities.

This is thanks to their utilization of cutting-edge fabric welding technology.

It’s both THIN-lightweight and BREATHABLE.

The Terra Kuda Neck Gaiter provides UV protection up to UPF 20 (varies slightly based on the model: color/pattern).

It’s “one size fits most” with dimensions approximately 18.5 inches x 10 inches.

Check Out Today’s Price

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9 – iHeartRaves Seamless Face Mask

iHeartRaves Seamless Face Mask features design options that harken to your more fashionable side.

The iHeartRaves Face Shield features a super stretchy fabric that accommodates most head sizes (adults & kids).

It also has a moisture wicking fabric that transfers heat and humidity away from your body and outside of the seamless bandanna, helping to keep you cool.

The iHeartRave’s quick-dry fabric technology lets your face mask dry in minutes, instead of hours. 

This iHeartRaves Festive Face Mask is great for dusty music festivals, concerts, biking, raves, and outdoor sports like paintball, hiking, yoga, exercising, yard work, riding or whenever you want to live dust-free!

Check Out Today’s Price



WRAP UP

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As a survival site, we’re always on the hunt for the best gear for any sort of survival or emergencies situation. In the past, we’ve covered most of the obvious survival gear we think everyone should own, such as:

• a bug out bag
• a survival knife
• survival shovel
• a survival machete
• survival matches
• Ferro rods
• survival watches
• etc., etc., etc.

But I feel like we’ve been missing a key component. We’ve overlooked the survival neck gaiter (a.k.a. face shield mask)!

I’ve been using one myself for years, but for some reason, it’s gotten lost in the shuffle.

That’s why I’m happy we were able to circle back around today. To finally catch everyone up to speed on this handy useful survival tool called a Neck Gaiter.

“Just In Case” Jack

P.s. Do you know where the closest nuclear bunker is from your home?

There are a lot of natural nuclear shelters in the US that are absolutely free. And one of them is near your home.

Click here to see the Closest Natural Nuclear Bunker to Your Home?

Click on the image above to find out where you need to take shelter.

The post 9 Best Neck Gaiters / Face Shield Masks On The Market Today appeared first on Skilled Survival.

You can believe that we will somehow beat the odds this time if you want, but history is completely against you.  One of the biggest reasons why there is so much anxiety on Wall Street right now is because of how the yield curve is behaving.  We have seen yield curve inversions before each of the last seven U.S. recessions, and now it has happened again.  Perhaps this helps to explain why insiders are dumping stocks right now as if there will be no tomorrow.  If you were looking for a giant waving red flag to tell you that it is time to run for the exits, it doesn’t get much better than this.  This week, we watched the yield curve do something that it hasn’t done in 12 years…

The spread between the 10-year Treasury yield and the 2-year rate fell to negative 5 basis points, its lowest level since 2007. This is called a yield curve inversion. Experts fear it because in the past it has preceded recessionary periods. The 3-month Treasury bill rate also traded higher than the 30-year bond yield.

“The primary thing is yields are going down and going down with some acceleration,” said Art Cashin, the director of floor operations at UBS.

In addition, the spread between 3 month Treasury bonds and 10 year Treasury bonds just hit negative 50 basis points.  We haven’t seen that happen since March 2007.

And as David Rosenberg has noted, when the spread between 3 month Treasury bonds and 10 year Treasury bonds goes negative for at least three months, we have a recession 100% of the time…

We now have had three months of a 3-mo/10-yr yield curve inversion. The track record this has had in predicting recessions: 100%.

Yes, it is theoretically possible that this indicator could be proven wrong this time.

But do you really want to bet against an indicator with a track record of 100% accuracy?

Plus, we have a trade war with China to deal with this time around.  Hopeful comments from President Trump briefly bolstered the markets on Monday, but over in China prominent voices continue to pour cold water on the notion that a deal will happen any time soon.  Here is an example from Tuesday…

Sentiment was also dampened after Hu Xijin, editor-in-chief of the Global Times in China, tweeted that China is “putting so much emphasis on trade talks,” adding that “it’s more and more difficult for the US to press China to make concessions” as China’s economy becomes increasingly driven by its domestic growth. China announced measures aimed at boosting consumption, including potentially removing car-buying restrictions.

Unless one side chooses to fold like a 20 dollar suit, there isn’t going to be a resolution to this trade war any time in the near future, and that is going to mean a tremendous amount of pain for the U.S., China and the entire global economy.

Another indication that things are about to get bad is the fact that investors are starting to flock to precious metals.

Gold and silver are considered to be “safe haven assets” during a financial crisis, and right now gold and silver are both surging…

Gold prices are moderately higher in early U.S. trading, while the silver market is again sharply higher and hit another two-year high overnight. Bullish technical postures in both metals continue to invite the chart-based buyers to climb on board the long side. A weaker U.S. dollar index is also supportive to the precious metals markets today. December gold futures were last up $4.60 an ounce at 1,541.90. December Comex silver prices were last up $0.295 at $18.075 an ounce.

But for most hard working Americans, it is going to be far more important to build up an emergency fund as we head deeper into this new crisis, and this is something that I have written about repeatedly.  The reason why so many Americans lost their homes during the last recession was because they were living right on the edge financially.  It is imperative that you have a financial cushion so that you can pay your basic expenses when things start getting really hard.

Unfortunately, it is often young people that get the hardest during an economic downturn, and this is something that Annie Lowrey discussed in her most recent article…

Recessions are never good for anyone. A sputtering economy means miserable financial, emotional, and physical-health consequences for everyone from infants to retirees. But the next one—if it happens, when it starts happening — stands to hit this much-maligned generation particularly hard. For adults between the ages of 22 and 38, after all, the last recession never really ended.

Millennials got bodied in the downturn, have struggled in the recovery, and are now left more vulnerable than other, older age cohorts. As they pitch toward middle age, they are failing to make it to the middle class, and are likely to be the first generation in modern economic history to end up worse off than their parents. The next downturn might make sure of it, stalling their careers and sucking away their wages right as the millennials enter their prime earning years.

I understand that a lot of people may not want to hear this, but every economic indicator is telling us that a U.S. recession is coming, and many experts believe that it will be far worse than the last one.

If you prepare in advance for what is coming, that is going to help to take fear out of the equation.  Because when things get really crazy, it is those that don’t understand what is happening that are going to give in to fear, depression and despair.

We have not seen an economic environment like this in a decade, and there is no reason to believe that a miracle is going to come along and rescue us from the storm that is now looming above us.

The months ahead promise to be quite “interesting”, and not in a good way.

About the author: Michael Snyder is a nationally-syndicated writer, media personality and political activist. He is the author of four books including Get Prepared Now, The Beginning Of The End and Living A Life That Really Matters. His articles are originally published on The Economic Collapse Blog, End Of The American Dream and The Most Important News. From there, his articles are republished on dozens of other prominent websites. If you would like to republish his articles, please feel free to do so. The more people that see this information the better, and we need to wake more people up while there is still time.

The post An Indicator With A 100% Perfect Track Record Of Predicting Recessions Says That Another One Is Coming appeared first on The Economic Collapse.

Canning foodstuffs for preservation without refrigeration was once a lot more commonly done than it is now. Anyone who grew up in a rural area in the middle of the last century had a family that canned or knew someone who did. Time consuming on the front end, it was a necessity for many families. Safe pressure canning of food can easily last a whole year. Increasing affluence and improved efficiency in the production and distribution of food made it easier to buy food at the grocery store. Canning gradually became an anachronism.

RELATED STORY

Canning 101: Easy Steps to Keep Your Pantry Packed With Fresh Foods

Canning is far from a lost art. Its benefits may be more important today than they were to our grandparents. More than anything else, canning allows you to take complete control of your food supply. It goes hand in hand with growing your own fruits and vegetables, raising your own livestock and harvesting your own fish and wild game. If you do any of these things, it’s probably because you desire good, healthy, natural food uncontaminated by pesticides and unaltered by genetic enhancements or growth hormones. When you can your own food, you know what you’re putting in your body.

Before you start canning, here is a must-read list of safe steps to take.

10 Steps to Safe Pressure Canning

1. Read all the instructions that came with your pressure canner prior to getting started.
2. Check dial gauges for accuracy before use each year and replace if they read high by more than 1 to 2 pounds of pressure. Gauges can be checked at most county Cooperative Extension offices.
3. Clean canner lid gaskets and apply a light coat of vegetable oil once a year. Nicked or dried gaskets should be replaced.
4. Make sure all vent pipes are clear and contain no trapped material or mineral deposits.
5. Center the canner over the level burner.
6. Always stay nearby when pressure canning to monitor the pressure gauge.
7. Be sure to follow the recipe’s headspace instructions. Too little headspace can cause food to escape over the rim and cause the jar not to seal.
8. Vent all types of pressure canners 10 minutes before pressurizing.
9. At the end of processing time, allow the pressure to drop to zero naturally and wait two to five minutes before opening the lid.
10. Do not set processed jars on a cold surface or expose to breezy conditions as they can crack.

For the most recent copy of Survivor’s Edge or American Frontiersman or to subscribe, go to OutdoorGroupStore.com.

Knowing how to repel pesky insects is an important tool to have in your back pocket and will be crucial in any survival situation. Of course, you can prep your survival kits with over the counter insect repellents but you are also risking many possible reactions to your skin and respiratory system due to the very harmful chemicals within most bug repellents. Luckily, some of the very best bug deterrents and bite treatments are natural, safe and have a much longer shelf life than store bought products. Let’s chat about some easy, inexpensive and effective ways to keep those bugs away from you and how we can treat the annoying bites than do manage to find you!

Best Ways to Avoid the Sting!

Essential Oils

A high quality and pure essential oil that is free of synthetic fragrances is a very effective and versatile tool for your survival kit, especially for warding off insects and soothing skin irritations and bites. Just a very small amount is needed (1-4 drops) and can be diluted in coconut oil (another natural bug deterrent) before applied to exposed skin. You can also use essential oils to make DIY bug sprays and skin soothing sprays with distilled water, a little witch hazel and essential oils. Here are some top oils you will want in your survival kit:

• Citronella
• Lemongrass
• Rosemary
• Eucalyptus
• Tea Tree
• Lavender

Plants

Essential oils are all derived from various parts of plants and trees so it would make sense that there are very effective plants to help deter insects. Keeping some potted plants and drying the flowers and stems are a great way to grow your stash. You can freeze dry them to keep the therapeutic benefits strong for many, many years. Allow them to soak in witch hazel and distilled water to create a gentle bug repellent spray. Some plants that are great for keeping bugs are bay:

• Bay leaf
• Catnip
• Wormwood
• Basil
• Marigolds

Some other really great natural deterrents to consider:

• Garlic: peel and let sit out. You can also rub your skin with garlic cloves or even eat extra garlic to change the scent of your own oils in your body
• Cedar Blocks: natural cedar blocks are really great at keeping bugs away. Keep a stash of cedar chips or blocks and using them indoors or outdoors will keep bugs turning in the opposite direction. You can refresh your cedar blocks with a natural cedar oil from time to time.
• Vanilla extract: when it a pinch, dab some vanilla extract on your skin or where bugs enter to keep them away

To Soothe Pesky Bites

Herbs such as lavender, chamomile and calendula are very good for reducing inflammation and redness. Seep them in some hot water and make compresses and apply to the bite as often as needed. Make sure the compresses are room temperature and not too hot for the skin. To help with itchiness, peppermint and lavender essential oil can help do the trick. Tea Tree oil is a great antimicrobial and can be applied to bites to help avoid infection from brewing.

When a big bite gets very inflamed or you feel other symptoms such as fever, chills or sweats, this is considered a medical emergency and you will want to seek medical attention. Bug bites can cause severe infections or allergic reactions and should be taken seriously. Avoiding these annoying little critters is not only helpful for your sanity but could very well save your life as well!

If you’re reading this, you’ve probably given some thought to “bugging out.” You may even have a solid kit and plan. It’s relatively simple when you’re a single manor woman. When you start adding in children, spouses, and pets, things get complicated. If faced with the situation, you may choose to leave your dog at home to protect the house. Personally, I wouldn’t leave my dog at home. She would pee on my nice clean carpet, get into the trash, jump on the couch, and puke everywhere. If the fire or police department came by to check on the place, she would either charge them and get hurt or show them where my valuables are, I have no idea.

By J. Bridger, contributing author to SHTFblog and Survival Cache

Bugging out with your dog has advantages: Dogs are good for your morale. Dogs don’t nag or complain, they’re just happy to be dogs. They provide security because their ears and sense of smell are sharper than ours. Lastly, they provide protection. If your dog is decently sized, their presence may deter someone from choosing you as their next potential victim.  

 Getting Ready

Now is the time to prepare your dog. Take them camping. This will give you a chance to test your bug out bag and see how your dog behaves (if you don’t already know). You should start training your pooch on the basics: Sit, stay, come, heel, and walking on a leash. Anothergood one is “drop it!” I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been walking my dog, and suddenly she is chewing furiously on something she’s found and swallowed it before I can ID it. Is your dog healthy enough to walk several miles? Walking or running with your dog every day is a good way to keep you both in shape. A trip to the vet to ensure your pup is up to date on immunizations is important. In some states, if your dog bites someone and does not have a recent rabies vaccine, they may be put down. If they tangle with a wild animal, it’ll be one less thing you will have to worry about. Make sure they have a collar with your information on the tag. Keep in mind tags and collars can slip off. You should consider microchipping your pet.

Also read: Survival Debate – Dog or No Dog?

Your furry companion should be on a good flea and tick medication. It’s the humane thing to do and will make your life easier too. If your dog is infested, you may be next on the bug tour. Fleas and ticks carry diseases! There are many brands and kinds of medications out there including chewables, collars, and medications you apply topically between the shoulders. You should ask your vet which medication is best in your area, as this will vary by region. 

 Your Dog’s Kit

You have enough to carry, so keep this simple. Don’t overload yourself or your dog. They should carry no more than 10-15% of their body weight. Keep in mind if their pack gets wet, it will get heavier.

When we take the pooch on an adventure, we measure out her normal amount of dog food, divided evenly between two 1-gallon Ziplock bags. One goes on each side of her pack. In a perfect world, we would stow her food in dry sacks, but haven’t made the change yet. Wet food is heavy, I would steer clear of it for this application. Freeze dried dog food is available but is expensive and must be reconstituted with water. If you know you’ll be near a water source, that may be a good option for bugging out. Otherwise, I’d stick to dry food for convenience sake. Water is heavy. We use two 1L Platypus bags when we won’t be near water. Bladders are great because they’re lightweight and don’t slosh around. If you’re near a safe source, your dog can drink creek water without treatment (keep in mind, your dog CAN get Giardia, but it is not common). To check if your dog is dehydrated, pinch some of their skin. It should be elastic and rebound normally. If it doesn’t, they are dehydrated. If you hear someone talk about checking skin turgor for “tenting,” this is what they are referring to.  

A leash is a no-brainer. We also carry two 12’ lengths of webbing, in case we need some assistance getting the dog up or down a steep scramble. Depending on the weather, you may want to pack something for your dog to sleep on. Cold ground can suck the heat out of them. A blanket, cut down Therm-A-Rest Z-lite, or cut down Walmart sleeping pad are good places to start. Our dog has a fleece sweater, a down jacket, and a rain coat. It can get pretty chilly on the mountain, and these don’t weigh much. Your dog’s favorite toy would be a nice addition. Ideally its rugged and won’t get water logged. Our dog likes a hard bone you can stuff treats into. It keeps her occupied when we’re setting up a tarp or cooking.

Related: The Best Guard Dog for TEOTWAWKI

There are tons of companies making dog packs. Ruffwear and Granite Gear are our favorite. Mountainsmith, Ezy Dog, and Outward Hound make good packs. I would recommend looking for a used one on Ebay, they can get expensive. Make sure it has a beefy lifting strap and drain holes, these get heavy when wet! Our dog’s pack, bladders, leash, collapsible bowls, webbing, bedding, fleece, jacket, and raincoat weighs 5.2 lbs when dry. She weighs 70 lbs, so adding a couple pounds of food and water is well within her weight limit.

You may want to include a small survival kit in your dog’s pack for redundancy. Water treatment tablets, a fire starter, and a small pocket knife would weigh next to nothing and give you an added layer of security should you lose yours.

 Canine Medical

Dogs are tough. I had a chubby little beagle mix that got bit on the face by a rattlesnake. She swelled up and laid around for a few days and was good as new. I called up the vet and she told me there wasn’t anything to do, but some Benadryl may help her feel a little better. If I got bit, I’d probably die or lose a limb.

Even though dogs are tougher than people, you should seek out medical training specific to canines. You may be able to find a course through your local REI. Even the American Red Cross lists some canine first aid classes. There is far more advanced training available but be prepared to pay for it. Techline Trauma in Pennsylvania offers a K9TC3 course (Canine Tactical Combat Casualty Care) that runs for two days and costs $850.00. If I had the time and money, I’d do this twice. TCCC is one of the most fascinating and informative trainings I’ve ever had. In the K9TC3 course you will learn canine assessment, legal considerations, how to manage penetrating trauma injuries, severe bleeding, poisoning, blunt trauma, airway emergencies, cardiac arrest, IO/IV/IM/SQ, intubation, hypo/hyperthermia, and more. The University of Colorado offers a Wilderness Emergency Canine Care class for $145. Your vet may also be able to point you in the right direction.

There are a lot of canine specific first aid kits out there. You should have a medical kit, and a lot of the same things will work on your pup (ie: bandages). That being said, you should never assume human medications are okay for dogs. Don’t give your dog ibuprofen, aspirin, or acetaminophen (Tylenol).

A lot of people say you can use hydrogen peroxide to make your dog vomit in case they ingest something poisonous. That may be so, but I’ve never met a vet who recommended this. Your dog can aspirate the vomit and develop lung problems. I trust the experts on this one.

One dog specific medical device I would invest in is a good muzzle, in case your dog is injured. They won’t like it, but it will protect you or someone caring for them.

If your dog is walking on roads or rocks, their paw pads may become sore or raw. You may consider booties or rubbing paw balm on your dog’s feet when you stop. Unless you and your dog are active, chances are you’ll both be sore if you bug out. Massaging your dog’s muscles and stretching them will help prevent soreness and stiffness. There are a ton of YouTube videos about how to stretch your dog, and it’s easier than you’d think. If your dog is older or not used to the distance, they’ll appreciate it.

 Other considerations

• Keep in mind if for some reason you hitch a ride in an ambulance, they may not take your dog.
• You should be burying or packing out your waste, but now you will be pulling double duty with your dog’s doodie.
• If your dog isn’t well trained, bugging out will be a headache. You may want to consider an obedience school or trainer.
• If your dog becomes tired or injured, you may be carrying their pack (and them). Make sure you have a comfortable way to secure it to yours before the time comes.

 Conclusion

Choosing to take your pet with you or not is a choice you have to make. In most situations, I think the advantages are clear. The companionship and security they provide more than make up for double doodie duty.  

 

The political climate has risen to a boiling point in the United States. It would seem that the possibility, while improbable, of another civil war could erupt at any given moment. With that in mind, it is always good to be ready for any type of civil unrest to defend yourself, your family and your home. But, when equipping your AR-15 with an optic which one would serve you best if you are in a “bug in” situation that could last one or more weeks? What optic would best suit you in a close quarter combat (CQB) and an open environment situation? That is what we are going to explore.

What Types of Optics Should I Consider?

With the booming popularity of the AR-15 in the last 15, or so, years, we have also seen a surge of innovation in the optics market. Starting with the Aimpoint M68 CCO red dot, we found that an optic could quickly be a combat multiplier in giving the shooter not only fast acquisition of a target but also the ability to place well aimed shoots up to 300 yards away. As technology advanced, more optics became desirable due to their ability to provide more features. Optics like the EOTech 512, and later the XPS-2, the Trijicon ACOG fixed 4 power optic, Primary Arms 1-6x24mm variable scope with the ACSS reticle are just a few of the advancements in sight technology.

Why a Red Dot May Not Be the Best?

There is no doubt that a red dot is an excellent choice in an optic for your AR-15. The Trijicon MRO or Aimpoint Micro T-2 are excellent choices. They have the ability to find and engage a target quickly. In low light situations, some red dots can be coupled with night vision goggles to increase your lethality. High end red dots also have battery life that can sustain operation for 50,000 hours of continued use. However, they do have limitations. Shooting targets at distance can be challenging without the use of an added magnifier. This will add more items to your rifle that translates to a heavier rifle. In addition, if you have astigmatism, red dots can be difficult to use since the dot may be hard to see. Depending on the severity of your astigmatism, a red dot may appear as a star burst or several dots in a line. This may eliminate this sight for a lot of people.

Are Holographic Sights Better than Red Dots?

As mentioned, red dots are an excellent option; however, a holographic sight like the EOTech 512 or XPS-2 may be superior to the red dot. For those that are plagued with astigmatism, a holographic sight will not look distorted due to the use of mirrors and a laser to generate the reticle. A red dot uses a LED light that reflects off the front lens to the shooters eye. A sight like an EOTech can sustain damage to the lens, or lose it completely, and still project a reticle making it far more durable. Any damage to a red dot’s front lens could spell disaster for the shooter due to the design and technology required for a red dot to work. However, a holographic sight does have one disadvantage to the red dot and that is battery life. A laser requires far more energy to operate than a LED light and battery life is usually relegated to about 1,000 hours of continuous operation. That could also be an issue for someone that does not have access to replacement batteries.

Fixed Power Optics Suck for CQB…

Fixed power optics, like the Trijicon ACOG, are another great option for AR-15s. In the last 5 to 10 years, we have seen more military units begin to use fixed power optics to allow additional lethality to the Soldiers or Marines. These sights allow a shooter to better see a target which allows for more accurate round placement. Newer versions of the ACOG even have fiberoptic illuminated reticle that assists in finding the reticle. Yet, with the increased magnification does hinder a fixed power optic from being the best option for CQB. If you are in an urban environment and must maneuver in and/or around homes, apartments, or other types of buildings the ACOG may be too much optic for what you need.

Why LPVO are the Most Versatile?

Red dots, holographic sights, and fixed power optics are all fine choices; however, the low power variable optics (LPVOs) have the most versatility built into them. A great example is the Primary Arms 1-6x24mm FFP ACSS scope. This optic is a first focal plane sight that can be set on a magnification from 1 power up to 6 power for long range shots. The ACSS reticle is the pinnacle of innovation with optic technology by providing a reticle that allows the shooter the ability to be precise in aiming but also provide ranging capabilities as well as bullet drop compensation. It even allows the shooter to shoot moving targets by using the built-in lead points. A first focal place LPVO mimics a red dot at 1 power since the ACSS reticle will reduce in size to appear to be a dot. The reticle for the Primary Arms LPVO can be illuminated and features 11 brightness settings. In most higher end offerings, the reticle will be etched into the glass that will ensure durability if the optic gets knocked around.

Wrapping It Up…

All modern optics are going to suit most people well on their AR-15. Yet, having the ability to use an optic like a red dot or increase the magnification to 6 power quickly makes the LPVO the best option. Every sight will have pros and cons; however, the LPVO pros outweigh the cons. For a reality where you may be forced to protect your family and property for prolong periods of time, the ability to have an illuminated sight, if desired, and the flexibility to choose the magnification needed for the scenario that is front of you makes it the optimal option for a “bug in or out” situation. Since the reticle is not dependent on being illuminated, batteries may not be a major concern when put in a situation where they are not readily available. Regardless what optic your preference is, you can only be as lethal as your training allows. Choose a sight and train to ensure your proficiency gives you the best opportunity to make it out of any situation.

 

About Mark Grimsley

Mark Grimsley is a former U.S. Army Officer that started his career as an enlisted Abrams crewman. He has served in 3 overseas tours that include Korea in 2002, Iraq in 2003 as a tank gunner and Afghanistan in 2010-11 as a logistics officer. He completed numerous schools in the Army to include Air Assault and Airborne. Currently, Mark is an Army spouse and enjoys running a YouTube channel

 

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If only the speed and dexterity of camera tripods could extend to rifle stability. Ahh, but there is a saddle-like apparatus that snipers have been using for years. But the three drawbacks of the saddles include price (good ones exceed $300), weight (good ones hover round one pound), and the saddles completely consume the tripod head thus preventing it from quick use with other attachments including spotting scopes, cameras, rangefinders, and the like. Enter the Magpul Magpul M-LOK Tripod Adaptor, a tremendous solution that solved all three problems in one ounce-and-a-half $50 plate that seamlessly integrates the rifle into a stable support platform that is common across photography, and it follows the massive number of photo-oriented stability options.

By Doc Montana, contributing author to Survival Cache and SHTFblog

Stable shooting platforms are not rare. From sticks and sandbags, to fence posts and pickup truck hoods, standard rifles smoothly slide around providing the shooter an optimum position. Then came the popular bench rests like the Caldwell Lead Sled. Now I love my Lead Sled for traditional rifle stocks, but the AR15 with its plethora of handguard configurations and accessories, tactical stocks, and especially the magwell filled with a stick up to a foot long. Further the stock-to-handguard alignment of an AR platform rifle tends to make it sit quite high in traditional rests. But what if you could just snap your AR into a tripod with the ease and security of a DSLR with large telephoto lens? Obviously you can since that is the point of this article. Enter the Magpul M-LOK Tripod Adaptor.

 Also Read: Back to Basics – The KISS AR-15

Bolting onto the underbelly of your handguard, the Magpul M-LOK Tripod Adaptor is barely apparent until it’s needed. In fact it makes are reasonable good handhold upgrade although not as efficient as Magpul’s own AFG.

The CNC machined aluminium plate is designed to integrate with the popular Manfrotto RC2 and Q2 interfaces. The small footprint of the plate provides ample strength to the system. With the average balance point of a typical AR15 somewhere around the magwell, the Magpul M-LOK Tripod Adaptor, mounted just forward of the magwell, safely and secures an AR platform rifle up to 10 pounds, in my estimation anyway. And that’s based on a quality tripod with an equally quality tripod head.

And speaking of tripod heads, a popular choice for the Magpul M-LOK Tripod Adaptor is a ball head tripod head, in specific one of Manfrotto’s heavy duty choices. A quality ball head allows both freedom of movement and adjustable drag giving a fluid (but not literally fluid as with fluid-head video tripod heads) motion.

One of the amazing aspects of using a Magpul M-LOK Tripod Adaptor and tripod support is the extreme diversity of shooting positions, heights, and angles. Basically, any direction a camera on a tripod can point at, an AR15 can as well.

Depending on the particular tripod, from ground level to seven feet plus is possible, and pretty much any angle that allows the rifle to remain balance is possible as well. Many quality (and I mean quality) tripods have legs that can extend far beyond the usual 66 degrees or so. And speaking of tripod legs, I fully recommend metal or carbon fiber over anything plastic. And of the metal, I suggest round aluminium over rectangular or channeled aluminium. Of course you can use whatever you like, but it will be a rude awakening when you start popping off shots only to have your lightweight tripod collapse, twist or bend.

Related: Survival Cache Podcast: The AR-15 Part 1

For those with more extensive needs, Magpul makes solutions for a popular railed tripod mount that not only mates with more advanced tripod heads, but slides back and forth for additional balance preferences. Magpul’s Dovetail Adapter chassis rail for RSS and ARCA tripod head interfaces is the next step for those with greater stability needs. If the future for rifle tripod adapters looks bright, Magpul just makes it blindingly bright.

 

All Photographs by Doc Montana

 

 

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